Nope that make's perfect sense, as far as the DC goes when i said it went way up that's because i only expected it to go up 3-4pts and it went to a high of 73.1% at WOT, before i think it went as low as 64% DC at WOT, i also got to figure out how to wire the AM-E.FP gauge into the PL, it's gonna really piss me off if i can't after spending $300 on the gauge... also remember that this combo is new and the chip i have need's some tweeking or like i said before get a WB chip made for it, whatsya think ?
Powerlogger
- Thread starter robert lee
- Start date
Until you get the top of 3rd gear fueling "safe" I'd leave that alone. The 1/2 gears you can probably add a degree or 2 and see how the car likes it.
Now the 5.7 allows you to alter the fueling across all gears in one setting,meaning 1,2,3,4 get raised together. Then to get the car off it's ass quicker that chip allows you to alter fueling up or down in just 1st gear.
So you could add your 4.7% and then go back and reduce your 1st gear fueling to offset what you put in for the overall fueling.
The 6.x chips are a little more difficult to do that with, but it's possible.
Remember that engine loading is hardest up top, usually past the 1/8 mile mark and on.
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Now the 5.7 allows you to alter the fueling across all gears in one setting,meaning 1,2,3,4 get raised together. Then to get the car off it's ass quicker that chip allows you to alter fueling up or down in just 1st gear.
So you could add your 4.7% and then go back and reduce your 1st gear fueling to offset what you put in for the overall fueling.
The 6.x chips are a little more difficult to do that with, but it's possible.
Remember that engine loading is hardest up top, usually past the 1/8 mile mark and on.
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Something to think about while i'm down waiting to weld the WB bung on, i think my SFC got me a little off on the D/P, i think i will start over and clock the turbo some and see if it will line up better, then maybe figure out the 10-or-2 oclock for the WB sensor as i'm not sure what side yet, globle west sfc are loooong.... they only move the D/P 3/4 "or so down but it make's a diffrence
This chip was burned for 18-19 psi boost and since i know i will be running up to 25psi boost and alky i guess the chip will HAVE to be reburned? i know Eric raise's the timing on the alky chips but i don't want more than 20-21 degrees timing so that leave's me to wonder how much timing he add's to a alky chip...:detective:
I think you absolutely need a reburn, If it were me I'd send the chip back with a list combo changes and expected 1/4 goals....that is if you intend to race it...if you just are going out to run stoplights then I'd see how the current chip can control the added boost.
I'd put in the notations that I would rather have the default timing set at 21/19* rather than the alky chip's default of 23/21*. This allows you to add timing as the car allows and if ever there is a power interuption you'll have the default cushion of lower timing should you not know it happened.
You also need to be honest/realistic about your max boost.A difference of a pound or so is not hard to tune but running 3-5 more OR less makes WOT tuning difficult and unpredictable.
Not saying you're not be realistic, but allot of us(including me) have gotten poor results because we run 25 psi when we had the chip burnt for 20psi.
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I'd put in the notations that I would rather have the default timing set at 21/19* rather than the alky chip's default of 23/21*. This allows you to add timing as the car allows and if ever there is a power interuption you'll have the default cushion of lower timing should you not know it happened.
You also need to be honest/realistic about your max boost.A difference of a pound or so is not hard to tune but running 3-5 more OR less makes WOT tuning difficult and unpredictable.
Not saying you're not be realistic, but allot of us(including me) have gotten poor results because we run 25 psi when we had the chip burnt for 20psi.
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Had a issue with the new alt and turbo both are (i think ) fixed now, i will know in the next day or so when i get time to button everthing up and the PLX and ALKY will be functional this weekend, i think this will be a brutal street car, but i need Rich to explain how to log FP on the PL...:yes: My goal is the 10-sec club, not the i just changed a head gasket for the third time club...:boxed:
Hah ha ha well creep the boost up SLOWLY or you'll be in the HG club. Either way after a few practices a HG job can be done in a day. I haven't blown a HG in a while so I better not jinx myself lol. If you have a fuel pressure gauge logging it on the PL is easy. You'll have no problems :thumbup::thumbup:
At least your not in the change the fuel pump one thousand times club like me!!! (Which also leads to HG club)
At least your not in the change the fuel pump one thousand times club like me!!! (Which also leads to HG club)
Okay good, you're almost logging fuel pressure.
Autometer transducers have a purple wire in thier harness. That's the 0-5V analog output wire and it simply needs extended to your powerlogger's I/O board(that little board with 8 or so wire lugs on it).
Choose either I4 or I5 lug and that's it! you are now logging fuel pressure on either what the PL screen calls PR4 or PR5 field at the bottom left of the "data" screen.
We can get fancier after you get it done and want to zero it in with your Autmeter gauge's reading. That's done with voltage offsets and I can modify your .INI file that the PL reads so that it will display the words "Fuel Pressure" in that field....or what ever you want it to say.
FWIW... logging alky pressure is next logical step and is done the exact same way only with a transducer with an expanded PSI range. Julio sells these kits and it's worth it see where and when and how much alky is being sprayed at any given time in the run.You can also track your alky pumps health and whether it's losing "umph" based on previous pressures observed.
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Autometer transducers have a purple wire in thier harness. That's the 0-5V analog output wire and it simply needs extended to your powerlogger's I/O board(that little board with 8 or so wire lugs on it).
Choose either I4 or I5 lug and that's it! you are now logging fuel pressure on either what the PL screen calls PR4 or PR5 field at the bottom left of the "data" screen.
We can get fancier after you get it done and want to zero it in with your Autmeter gauge's reading. That's done with voltage offsets and I can modify your .INI file that the PL reads so that it will display the words "Fuel Pressure" in that field....or what ever you want it to say.
FWIW... logging alky pressure is next logical step and is done the exact same way only with a transducer with an expanded PSI range. Julio sells these kits and it's worth it see where and when and how much alky is being sprayed at any given time in the run.You can also track your alky pumps health and whether it's losing "umph" based on previous pressures observed.
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The alky transducer will go in a a brass fitting down by the brass filter housing.I don't recall if it's before or after the filter as it's been a couple years since I installed mine. The transducer looks just like the autometer piece except it ranges 50-200 psi...mine does anyway. I assume his does the same range, but maybe it's just 50-150 psi.
I did mine just months before he produced a kit, but I did it with his help.
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I did mine just months before he produced a kit, but I did it with his help.
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