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No Start Issue

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by jeffc8589, May 5, 2016.

  1. jeffc8589

    jeffc8589 New Member

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    OK this goes back to almost seven years ago. I had brought up for discussion about my car with 1500 miles not starting once motor got hot. Well 7 years later and as I found time to mess with it, my mechanic thought it was due to stale gas. I decided to remove all existing gas, replace fuel filter, replace injectors due to o-ring leaks. Now the car will not start cold or hot unless shot with starting fluid. It will run perfect once it is started. Does anyone have any idea of what is going on? We have replaced cam sensor and plugs also. Now the car has 1556 miles on it.
     
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  2. dennykrom

    dennykrom Active Member

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    Try crank sensor.
     
  3. fast400

    fast400 Pressurized

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    Sounds like a fueling issue. I would check fuel pressure and spark in all cylinders. Has it not been started in 7yrs? Why did you replace the cam sensor? The sensor 180 degrees out will also cause your issue.
     
  4. shadow images

    shadow images Active Member

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    Could also be a Computer problem. Had a similar issue.
     
  5. jeffc8589

    jeffc8589 New Member

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    Ok 7 years later I finally found the issue. I didn't give it any thought at the time but before the car wouldn't start hot but now also cold. I forgot I had the car on the lift to wash the underside and the bottom of the motor. Now this is where it gets very interesting. Over the years the car would not start hot. Motor would need to cool for about 30 minutes. During the time of testing we put a noid light on the injectors and always found a dim light when hot and cranking. Now after I washed the car it would only crank and not start unless starting fluid was used. Made no sense. But the noid light now was also dim on cold start. I proceeded to do a voltage test at the injectors with nothing running key on I had just under 11 volts about 10.8. When the car would crank voltage would drop below 8 volts most of the time. I performed an amp test on starter and found 225 amps on some starts others were around 180. As amps dropped voltage would increase to injector harness and car would start. So the starting fluid on the no start would make the car start and run by dropping load off of starting and putting full power to injectors. There was another trick that I performed why the would crank and not start. I took a jumper from the positive of the battery and powered the 12 volt side of the injectors due to power being supplied when key is on. The computer fires injectors by completing ground. When 12 volts was supplied to harness car started every time within seconds. So what we have found is there is a bad starter on the car. When the car sits there seems to be a build up inside the starter motor drawing higher amps and dropping voltage to injectors. I finally put 2 + 2 together after I washed the bottom of the car and it would not start cold then I realized that the excessive water on the starter is effecting somethting. I also read on line several articles stating that if the starter is drawing a higher amp it will drop injectors out and car won't start. I have a new starter ordered and will keep everyone posted once it is replaced. I thank everyone for the help on the issue.
     
  6. gplmaster

    gplmaster Active Member

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    Wow, very interesting. Looking forward to the next message.
     
  7. duarosca

    duarosca Well-Known Member

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    I had that problem for years.
    Ground cable to the motor behind the turbo was cooked.

    Regards, Oscar
     
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  8. duarosca

    duarosca Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry, it doesn't crank right only that relay click sounds d, or it cranks but no start.

    Regards, Oscar
     
  9. duarosca

    duarosca Well-Known Member

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    I also had a no start problem not to long ago where it cranked but no start and it was the hose on the fuel pump. uploadfromtaptalk1462892768804.png

    Regards, Oscar
     
  10. kidsixpack

    kidsixpack Well-Known Member

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    Great information guys!!
    KID
     
  11. jeffc8589

    jeffc8589 New Member

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    OK hopefully final answer on the 7 year no start. Replaced starter and helped but was not the fix. If I jumped from the battery to the injection harness 12 volts car would start every time. If I didn't, it would not start hot or even warm. Problem got worse as time went on. So we checked as many wires as we could. Interesting part now. I decided to extend the jumper wire from the battery into the fuse box and connect to the wire feeding injectors. Again car would start every time. So now I played with fuel injection fuse pulled it out a little and car would start. Push it in all the way car wouldn't start. Removed terminals, cleaned, and put dielectric grease with a new fuse and car starts every time. Hot, cold, or in between. So it looks like there was a connection issue on the fuse supplying power to the injectors. I will try it over the next few days and keep every one posted.
     
  12. duarosca

    duarosca Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a good deal, I'll check that one out on my TA, which fuse is it.

    Regards, Oscar
     
  13. gplmaster

    gplmaster Active Member

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    Update on my no start issue: I took my car to the dealership to see if they could get it to run. They ended up getting it started and it clicked loudly. They were concerned about valve problems but after receiving some very good advice from people on this forum, I told them to start it and rev to 1500 rpm and hold for about 10 minutes. Running it some more fixed the clicking problem. They ran it from time to time over a period of a few weeks and sometimes it would not start. They put some fresh gas, new plugs, new plug wires, tested the coil pack and changed it. Then changed the ignition module and then replaced the new coil pack under their parts warranty. So far it has started each time.
     

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