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Q

Quiky One

Silver Member
Ever have one of those days where you want to work on your car but EVERYTHING is a PITA?

Well today was one of them...You think changing the oil is easy right? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO not for me. The damn oil filter must have seized on there because it took me over and hour just to get the damn thing off. :censor: :censor: :censor: :wall: :wall:

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And while I was at it I found a crack in the header that wasnt there before I raced...........I do not even know why I enjoy this car so much. :headbang:

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You are only suppose to "HAND TIGHTEN" the filter.
Get a better filter wrench.There are plenty of TRICK wrenches out there to prevent this from happening.
Live & learn,I guess
 
haha I have changed the oil on this car atleast 10 times since I've owned it. Never an issue...I always tighten my filters by hand 1/2 a turn from when the gasket seats...has worked on numerous vehicles and this one is different for some reason..who knows
 
Also oil the new gasket, most of the times it's the gasket that makes an oil filter seem impossible to get off :)

As for the crack, these things happen. Pull it and tig weld, it'll be better than new. I used to get cracks all the time, then spent the time to go over alot of the welds with a tig and some stainless filler and havent had a problem scince :)
 
TTA850 said:
Also oil the new gasket, most of the times it's the gasket that makes an oil filter seem impossible to get off :)

As for the crack, these things happen. Pull it and tig weld, it'll be better than new. I used to get cracks all the time, then spent the time to go over alot of the welds with a tig and some stainless filler and havent had a problem scince :)
Click to expand...
haha I know I am young but I am not a complete dumbass :wall: Of course I oiled the gasket...anyway haha

Yeah I will just pull it and do it right. I have done this one two of my dads TR's but this TTA looks a little harder...Any tips on taking them off?
 
Don't feel bad!
I have had the sticking oil filter happen to me a few times.
And having pretty much nothing but Trans Ams, and changing my own oil since I was 16, trust me, I am good at it.
It has never happen on my 20th TTA, my my one 1974 455 Trans Am with headers has had it happen a few times.
One time, the damn thing ended up ripped in half, with a mess everywhere!
Got it off though, and all cleaned up.
The car stunk for a few weeks, as I guess I didn't get quite all the oil off the exhaust.
I'm sure it has happened to everyone sometime in their life.

:beach:
 
Quiky One said:
haha I know I am young but I am not a complete dumbass :wall: Of course I oiled the gasket...anyway haha

Yeah I will just pull it and do it right. I have done this one two of my dads TR's but this TTA looks a little harder...Any tips on taking them off?
Click to expand...

Sorry didnt mean to say your a dumbass, you'd be surprised how many people dont know to oil the gasket - even so called mechanics.
 
U know I have seen those and wondered if those worked good. Can you get a wrench up there? Mine is awfully close
 
I used to use the Napa 1086 Gold filter. Much shorter than the AC Delco stock filter (which used to hit my idler arm) and never a problem to get off with a standard band clamp style filter wrench.
 
FROM JOHN PERCY @ JOHN'S PERFORMANCE;
The filter of choice for the TR's is the AC PF-52 for it's extra capacity, so
being that most owners consider this a good filter to run on these car's (as do
I) and that the TT/A engine is the same, the below filters will be compared to
this one.

AC PF-52;
8 piece construction, no safety bypass valve
4 7/8 tall
36 pletes
media with caps= 4 3/16 x 2 11/16
shell= .015 thick
drainback valve= heavy construction, .075 thick, also used to compress media
firmly into shell.
element= 4.250" x 50" = 212.5 sq. in. to filter (important to remember this when
comparing)
steel end caps

NAPA 1086
9 piece construction, no safety bypass valve although box indicates one might be
contained
3 1/2" tall (extremely high clearances to frame, FORD metal arrester also easily
installs)
65 pletes
media with caps= 2 7/8" x 3 1/2"
shell= .015 thick
drainback valve= heavy construction, .060 thick
element= 3" x 94" = 282 sq. in. to filter
steel end caps with heavy steel spring at bottom of shell to hold element VERY
firmly into anti drainback valve

AC 1218
8 piece construction. no safety bypass valve
5 1/2" tall
36 pletes
media with caps= 4 9/16" x 3 7/16"
shell= .015 thick
drainback valve= heavy construction, .075 thick, also used to compress media
firmly into bottom of shell.
element= 4.5" x 67" = 301.5 sq. in. to filter
steel end caps

FRAM HP4
11 piece construction
5 3/4" tall
65 pletes
media with cardboard caps= 4 1/2" x 3" tall
shell= .020 thick
drainback valve= rubber seal only .030 thick, steel support with cork gasket (3
pieces)
element= 4.375" x 87" = 380.625 sq.in. to filter
cardboard endcaps
uses stamped pop metal bung at bottom of shell to support media into anti
drainback valve

I contend the best filter to use for the TT/A is the NAPA 1086 due to
construction, sq. in. of filtration and clearances to the frame. Filtration is
only 19.5 sq.in. less than the larger 1218, but it's also 69.5 sq. in. larger
than the PF-52. The 1086 is a better filter in many way's than the PF-52, so
why is even more filtering media needed? However if TT/A owners really feel the
need to go ballistic with oil filtration, the longer version of the 1086 in
available with NAPA PN 1186, but like the the 1218 and the HP4 safe clearances
to the frame will be sacrificed. I don't see the need for a longer filter on
the TT/A especially when you consider how much better this filter is than the
long PF-52 filter is for the TR's, consider how much more than the short PF-47.

John Pearcy
 
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