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A Few General Questions.

SCTTA

Member
Afternoon friends. I have a few general questions since I've forgotten so much on these cars! Over the last few days I have been trying to get 1021 back running well after many years of inactivity.. The last several startups have been in the garage only since its not registered. I have let it run on those occasions for perhaps 5-10 minutes, long enough where its atleast to temp. Today it seemed a bit off, startup idle was floating between 1100-1200 rpms and then eventually dropped down to 750-800. Regarding the O2 readings on my scanmaster at idle, should I be seeing it floating around 019-025mv at idle? If I depress the pedal it does go back upwards of 750-800 and then back down to the stated numbers above when the rpms settle. Because I havent been able to drive it yet and the battery has been dead for so long, I assumed the ecm will need to relearn and given he short durations of run time it wouldnt be sufficient to learn correct? Which could skew some of the data on the scanmaster? Also, regarding the gas, its about 2 years old. My tps is sitting at .42. The plugs are very old, likely 10 years, with perhaps 3-4k miles inbetween. Coilpack? No idea, maybe stock, same with the MAF. Intercooler has likely never been cleaned and it will be done after I move it into the new garage. Regarding the FPR, does this photo of it appear adjustable? It has a maybe 9/16 nut on top and then an input for an allen key that leads me to believe it is. I do not have a gauge yet to see where it's sitting at, that is on the acquisition list before I install the TT chip. Current chip is at least 15 years old.

For mods on the car, essentially stock: 8" cone k&n, AFR?, old chip, thinking its a thrasher92 or maybe even a pitbull(tt5.7 on the way), scanmaster, shiftkit if I remember correctly. Fuel pump is new, within ~1000 miles and unfortunately a stock replacement so I get to YAY drop that f'n tank again at some point and install a real fuelpump.. I have anyways been hesitant to do any mods to the car that may potentially hurt the resale value of it if I had ever decided to sell it but, seeing as how I have owned it for 15 years the odds of ever selling it are slim. My goal right now is to at a minimum have it running the way it should and then start modding. I was 21 when I bought the car and spending thousands on mods at the time were out of the question but, seeing as how I work at a great aerospace job now that is less of a concern.

South Carolina does not seem to be the hotspot for GN/TTAs like it was when I was living in MA so if I get myself into trouble with the car - there are few options. I will be doing most all the simple bolt-ons myself and prefer to learn it all myself with the help of these forums, not having the knowledge would be a crutch and liability. In the last several days I have spent a good 12-15 hours re-researching and am saddend to see a lot of the past vendors going way of the dodo with their specialty parts. Expect lots of basic questions in the coming months!
 

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First is that a vac. line on the FPR ? Yes you are correct that the ecm has to relearn by driving for 15-20 mins, if it were me i would dump the gas, replace all the dry-rotted vac. lines, replace the battery, install the new chip ( the old one has too much timing) new plugs , clean the IC and then go for a drive and keep your foot out of it untill you are sure all the #' are good, keep in mind its not a matter of if the maf will go bad but when so a translater and lt1 maf are in the future, IMHO learning how to work on TTA's is half the fun...
 
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Replacement battery is in the list for this weekend, the current one does not appear to be taking a charge correctly, voltage is jumping all over the place from 0.6v to 13ish constantly while on the charger. With the fan delay relay unplugged now I hope that will fix my suspected drain issues, given the fans randomly kick on even when the car is cold. Replaced all vacuum lines dealing with the turbo, the other lines look acceptable, though I will go over them all again this weekend with more scrutiny. Regarding the plugs and wires - The wires are the TTA 20th and have been on there for some time, plugs are old and likely gnarled. I do not remember which plugs are in there, id assume I used AC Delcos as a stock replacement and also unsure of what they were gapped to. Any recommendations on new plug wires, length, thickness etc? Also, is there a prefered plug to use now on an essentially stock car with a new TT5.7 chip as well as the gap, .35?

Regarding the MAF, my current appears to be functioning and while that's all nice - I can't stand the look of the dryer hose going to the turbo so I would rather replace that hose with an aluminum alternative and probably just upgrade to the lt1 MAF and translator. It also seems that -noone- makes that pipe anymore so I will need to be creative.

How difficult is removing the intercooler? I am hoping it only involves disconnecting the tube clamps and a handful of bolts but, probably wishful thinking. One other question, I noticed the turbo and intercooler do not quite line up wih eachother, there's a slight offset of at least 3/8", would this be an indication of bad motor mounts or anything?

Thanks!
 
I run stock AC plugs at 25lbs boost with no problems, i just tighten the gap, with stock boost the stock gap is fine, i think i have a set of MSD wires if i can find them you can have them.
I bought a maf pipe for a GN yrs ago and made it work w/ease.
IC is not that bad, a bracket on each side and 10mm screws for the shroud, if the IC pipe don't line up w/ the turbo you can clock the housing on the turbo.. if you are talking about the left to right lining up someone has had it or the turbo off before and made a boo boo on the install...
 
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