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Fram Oil Filter

jhill89tta said:
When I run Mobil 1 with 21 pounds of boost the valve stems blow off the guides. With 15w40 Rotella it does fine. I don't think the people that rebuilt the heads before I bought the car did the guides right.
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The heads could be a problem, alot of times I turn up the boost to more than 21# and never had a problem with anything. So, keeping the knock to near zero if I can.
 
I'm pretty sure it is due to excessive valve stem clearance or they may have knurled the guides. Was fine under stock boost until I turned it up. Started smoking badly. removed the valve covers and all of the exhaust valve seals were at the top of the valves. Pushed them back on and quit smoking. Changed out the synthetic and have never had another problem.
 
TTA984 said:
Valvoline VR1 is race engine formulated but you can run a passenger car with it. It states that on Valvolines website, under overview.
But, Valvoline has the speciality racing oil which is synthetic and it clearly states that it is "not street legal".

I use VR1 myself, I use 30 wgt. because of the climate here. It works for me.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6
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Corrrect...the main difference in the Street/Racing (VR1 Racing Oil, Valvoline Racing Synthetic) and Valvoline Specialty Racing Oil (Not Street Legal) is the 1st 2 contain additional additives for longevity (street use). Whereas the Specialty Racing is strictly Racing where the oil will need to be drained and replace several times a season because without the add datives it will break down much quicker the it's street/race counterpart. Bothe VR1Racing Oil and Valvoline SpecialtyRacing Synthetic both contain exactly the same amount of ZDDP...VR1 Racing Synthetic is slightly lower.

Zinc wt% / Phosphorous wt% from Valvoline spec sheets
VR1 Racing Oil 0.14 / 0.13
Valvoline Specialty Racing Synthetic 0.14 / 0.13 ("Not Street Legal")
VR1 Racing Synthetic 0.11 / 0.10

As for use of VR1 and Valvoline Racing Syn in newer cars it will void warranty of emission parts (catalytic converters & oxygen sensors) since it does not meet the newer required API/SN or GF-5 motor oil ratings do to the high amount of ZDDP.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_motor_oil_classifications.htm

"If you are driving an older classic muscle car or hot rod that has an engine with a flat tappet camshaft, you should be aware of the fact that today's SM and SN rated motor oils contain much lower levels of anti-scuff additive called "ZDDP" (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate). The level of ZDDP in current motor oils has been reduced to no more than 0.08% phosphorus to extend the life of the catalytic converter. Phosphorus can contaminate the catalyst over time if the engine uses oil, causing an increase in tailpipe emissions.
The lower ZDDP content is not harmful to late model engines with roller lifters or followers because the loads are much lower on the camshaft lobes. But on pushrod engines with flat tappet cams, the level of ZDDP may be inadequate to prevent cam lobe and lifter wear. In some cases, cam failures have occurred in as little as a few thousand miles of driving! This is even more of a risk in engines if stiffer valve springs and/or higher lift rocker arms are used.
To avoid such problems, you should add a ZDDP additive to the crankcase, or use an oil that meets the previous SL service rating, or use diesel motor oil or racing oil that contains adequate levels of ZDDP to protect the camshaft and lifters.
If you are installing a new camshaft in the engine, be sure to use the cam manufacturers assembly lube and follow the recommended break-in procedure. But you will still need to add ZDDP to the crankcase or use an oil that contains adequate levels of ZDDP for continued protection."

:cheers:
 
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I use a quality 5W30 oil, zinc additive and a Wix filter. My car is not raced. I would think that using the VR1 would eliminate the need for the zinc additive.
 
That's a 55 dollar oil change. How often do you plan on changing it? I do mine every 6 months and it kills me because I think I put 25 miles on it this year.
 
8289ta said:
That's a 55 dollar oil change. How often do you plan on changing it? I do mine every 6 months and it kills me because I think I put 25 miles on it this year.
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Well this is the first real oil change for the TTA.
In my SRT-4 I use RP 5 qts= $50, K & N Filter = $15 2X a year, also use RP and K & N filters in my mower lol.
 
Scott89TTA said:
As stated in this thread...no need for the ZDDP when using VR1 :thumbup:

I'm not sure if too much ZDDP is a problem or not...using VR1 and ZDDP together will nearly double the needed amount of ZDDP to be safe with flat tappet cams.
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Not sure either but used 1/2 a bottle.
 
TTAGUY said:
Not sure either but used 1/2 a bottle.
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Just did a quick search and several boards had this line..."TOO MUCH ZDDP creates acidic compounds that cause premature bearing failure." Personally I wouldn't add any more.

I have been running VR1 10W30 and the same NAPA Gold for at least 5 years on the street and track at 24-26 psi without any additional ZDDP...no issues whatsoever.
 
Scott89TTA said:
Just did a quick search and several boards had this line..."TOO MUCH ZDDP creates acidic compounds that cause premature bearing failure." Personally I wouldn't add any more.

I have been running VR1 10W30 and the same NAPA Gold for at least 5 years on the street and track at 24-26 psi without any additional ZDDP...no issues whatsoever.
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Copy that good to know.
 
8289ta said:
That's a 55 dollar oil change. How often do you plan on changing it? I do mine every 6 months and it kills me because I think I put 25 miles on it this year.
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I have been changing the oil in my collector cars driven like that once a year for a very long time without issue.
I change oil in the Fall, use synthetic in the LSI, LT1 cars with WIX filter & 10W30 RP in the GN & TTA. WIX filter should be fine. That is the reason to use a long drain oil ( Synthetic ).
I use 10W40 Shell Dino in my 66 GTO with 250ml of GM Oil Suppliment.
My thoughts are I'd rather have the bearings sitting in fresh oil over the winter months. Oil never gets very dirty in the Fuel Injected cars.

I think you could change the oil annually on a limited use collector car. Been doing that for years here on many different cars without a problem.
 
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