What's new
By:
TurboTransAm.com

Register today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Fuel Pressure

B

bruce nash

Active Member
Thanks WS6 for the help on the volt meter. It worked just like you said it would. It now reads above 13 volts. Prodecure took me about 3 hours but I used this time to clean up the gauge cluster and now it looks good to. I been reading how critical fuel pressure is to these cars so I went brought me a gauge. It checked 32 lbs at idle. Concerned me so I went borrowed one from the local garage, same pressure. I took the man's advice and installed new fuel filter. Same fuel pressure. Got back on here and started reading. Never could find a minimum pressure but have read alot about RaceTronix and Walboro 320-340 and a hot wire kit. Not going drag racing but reliabilty is the main thing. Jump in here and give me some advice.
 
Should be around 43psi with vac. line disconnected, sounds like you need a new pump and the 340 will work fine. Do you have a adg. regulator ?
 
Okay, I hear 43 lbs with vac. line disconnected. What vac. line? As far as a adg. regulator goes, I don't have one. What is it? Tell me more about the Walboro 340 fuel pump. Thanks, Bruce
 
It's the vacuum line that is connected to the top of the fp regulator, front driver side of the motor about even with the throttle body. Pull the vac line off and measure the pressure. On a perfect car it should be around 42-43psi….this simulates 0 boost and 0 vacuum to the regulator. From there, if the vac line is connected, the regulator should then give you 1 psi of fp per 1 psi of boost….. So say you have 43 psi, vac line off fp. With the vac line connected as in normal operation, then at 15psi of boost, you should have 43+15=58psi fuel pressure. A fuel pump will normally keep up with the vac line off fp, its the 1psi per 1psi of boost where they start to give out and thats the critical part when you need fuel most.
If you plan on driving the car normally, not necessarily racing it, and its never had a fuel pump replaced, then replace the pump, you don't want to be driving with a 26 yo pump much.
 
Yeah you don't have to be racing it, just a few hard hits with a weak pump can spell disaster, best case you will lift a head, worse case you will lift a head and dump coolant in the oil and take out the eng. bearings AND the turbo... I make it a point to log FP and boost.
 
bruce nash said:
Okay, I hear 43 lbs with vac. line disconnected. What vac. line? As far as a adg. regulator goes, I don't have one. What is it? Tell me more about the Walboro 340 fuel pump. Thanks, Bruce
Click to expand...
Thanks QUIK6 and Robert Lee for the head up boost and fuel pressure requirements. Most likely saved the engine for me. Don't know if the car has ever had a pump replacement but it definitely is going to get one. Tell me more about Walboro 340 fuel pump. Who do you recommend buying this pump from and the meaning of a hot wire kit? Do I need it? If so, why? Thanks, Bruce
 
Racetronix sells a complete kit with the pump and the hotwire kit. You need the hotwire kit because it supplies full voltage, via a relay, to the pump. The factory setup might only see 10 volts at the pump and makes it work harder for lesser results. It is an important, and fairly inexpensive upgrade.
 
Upon further research, I see says the blind man to the deaf dog. Walbro is the fuel pump and RaceTronix supplies the hot wire kit. I found fuel pump kit RFPK-011 on the RaceTronix's web site $160. It has the pump, hot wire kit, extra ground kit. This sounds like what I need. Am I on the right track now? What do you think? Thanks for any and all help I get. Pretty much all I knew about these cars when I brought it was they was all white and I just had to have one. Now I get to go to school. Thanks, Bruce
 
The next question is do you plan to install it yourself or have someone do it? Will they be cutting a hole in your rear floor to access the tank, the hatch door trick? Depends what you want to do with the car and its worth can make this a really bad idea or a good idea. Otherwise, the rear end has to be lowered almost to the point of removing it to get the gas tank out, not to mention trying to get the exhaust apart if its the factory exhaust…not what you want to hear but it is a bear of a job.
 
The RaceTronix kit RFPK-011 is what I need. Is this correct? I plan on doing the installation myself. It shouldn't be that big of a deal, just didn't know what I needed. I wouldn't dare cut a hole in this car. I am going to order this kit today and if I hit a snag I know where to go to Thanks, Bruce
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top