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fuel pump

Tim's#1489 TTA

Active Member
how hard is it to change the fuel pump?
average lenght of timw to do the job?
what pupm should I use on a stock car?
Thanks in advance for helping me out
 
Changing the intank fuel pump is a Medium job. Not Difficult or a technique sensitive job, but not easy. You must jack up the car, move the exhaust out of the way, lower the rear end as far as possible, remove the pan hard bar and drop the fuel tank. Then you must remove the old pump and reinstall. It's not hard I have done this plenty of times between my cars and my cousins camaros.

There is also an option of cutting an access hole in the floor pan above the tank. Do a search on this and you see a good write up on this procedure.

I can drop a tank and replace the pump and put the tank back in in one evening. The first time will take twice as long, and much easier with a helper.

You should put a Walbro 340 pump in with a hot wire kit. (racetronix for the kit)

Jarred
 
Thanks Jarred....I was quoted a little over $500 to have it done.
I just moved to Texas and all my tools are back in Iowa sitting in my dad's shop.
They were going to use an aftermarket pump (not sure what brand)
Right now the car is running 34lbs of pressure at idle and barley climbs as RPM increase. Initial key on the pressure is 42 and slowly drops to under 30lbs.
 
Jarreddsoon makes it sound easy cause he is a guru. It may be a real challenge for some folks. Good luck, post some pictures.
 
I think the most difficult part is getting the tank out and back in. It's a very tight fit and must be empty. I forgot to mention that, if it's not empty it will be too tough/heavy to manipulate. Gettin the filler neck and tank back in is challenging. I did not mean to make it sound easy, just that no special tools required. Rob just did this so he can give you his opinion.

Don't forget there is also the trap door option, that does not need the tank dropped. Check into that option too.

Good Luck either way!!
 
My opinion is if that car has never been apart, pay the $500, at least you will have your sanity left. buy a Walpro and give it to the shop to install, then the labor should only be around $300... WELL worth it!!
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.
The shop that will be doing it suggested a GM pump saying with a stock engine I dont need a Walbro.
The car starts to stumble and just a hint of a backfire under heavy throttle and one shop said I should run it hard to help blow the converter out since my emmissions HC was over 300. Will I hurt the motor doing this?
And YES ..I am very new to the TTa's and turbo motors in general
I really do appreciate the advice.
The only dumb question is the one you dont ask.
I try to live by this saying
 
1. Do not run the car hard until new pump is in!!!!!
2. put in the Walbro 340 pump, not a gm pump
3. pay the money have it done at the shop
4. Remember your shop guy really doesn't know sweet dick about these cars, even though he is a car guy and a licensed mechanic.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.
The shop that will be doing it suggested a GM pump saying with a stock engine I dont need a Walbro.

And YES ..I am very new to the TTa's and turbo motors in general
I really do appreciate the advice.
The only dumb question is the one you dont ask.
I try to live by this saying

You will get the best advice from these guys here on the forum-better than any GM mechanic.

Everyone was a newbie at one time or another when it comes to the TTA. No question is dumb. Agree with your saying.:)
 
Why a "hotwire"it and what does it do?

The hotwire kit brings the output directly from the alternator to the fuel pump with a larger gauge wire so that the volage to the pump is higher than stock.

From the Racetronix Site:

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=RFPK-011&eq=

[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The Wiring Harness[/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]All fuel pumps are voltage sensitive, the lower the voltage the lower the fuel volume. Gerotor pumps exhibit a significant increase in fuel volume with increased supply voltage. A Walbro pump's average fuel volume increases over 18% by increasing the supply voltage from 12 to 13.5 volts. The factory harness is marginal at best for supplying a factory pump with enough voltage to perform well. This is why the 'hot wire' modification is so popular. Replacing the factory pump with a high-performance pump such as the Walbro GSS340M can easily double the current demand under W.O.T. pressures. The voltage drop in the factory harness increases proportionally to the current demands of the pump. Racetronix has documented tests where the voltage drop in a factory harness has caused over a 25% drop in fuel pump volume. The Racetronix harness uses heavy 10 gauge copper wire to reduce voltage-drop to very low levels. The factory gauge of wire used is three gauges thinner. Our power feed comes off the back of the alternator where voltage is highest. It then runs through a weatherproof fuse holder and then to the back of the car. The Racetronix harness uses three-position male and female Weatherpack connectors which plug inline with the factory harness at the back of the tank. No cutting or splicing is required. High-quality weatherproof fuse holders and relays are used for maximum reliability. The Racetronix harness has a redundant ground upgrade as it is necessary to improve the harness on the negative side of the pump's supply as well. Racetronix supplies a spare ATO fuse, black vinyl wire ties, silicon grease and mounting hardware with each kit. We are including as a bonus our optional battery to body ground upgrade kit. This kit upgrades the under-rated ground wire running from the battery to the inner side of the passenger's quarter panel.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Racetronix harnesses are considered the best by which all others are judged. Attention to detail in every Racetronix harness is evident at first glance. Racetronix spares no expense to ensure reliability, ease of installation and performance.
All Racetronix harnesses are assembled using our computerized crimp-quality monitoring system and then circuit checked for the utmost in reliability. This Racetronix harness is backed by our limited lifetime warranty.[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
Heres a couple of pics of the hotwire at the alternator. The wire is ran underneath the car from the fuel pump to the alternator.

1st pic shows the wire plus the fuse. Wire is connected to the hot terminal on the alternator.

2nd pic shows where the fuse holder is held on the alternator.:yes:
 
1. Do not run the car hard until new pump is in!!!!!
2. put in the Walbro 340 pump, not a gm pump
3. pay the money have it done at the shop
4. Remember your shop guy really doesn't know sweet dick about these cars, even though he is a car guy and a licensed mechanic.

You will get the best advice from these guys here on the forum-better than any GM mechanic.

Everyone was a newbie at one time or another when it comes to the TTA. No question is dumb. Agree with your saying.:)

Good advice right there...nothing wrong with improving your fuel system even if you leave it stock! Also remember all those 23+ year old bolts can be very stubborn at times too...if you don't have the time, space or tools available right now let the shop do it for $350!
 
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