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Its out again (Intake Manifold) pics

TTAGUY

TTAGUY

Well-Known Member
Ok had a machine shop/engine builder come by a couple of days ago, showed him whats happening, with the exhaust leak at the center manifold bolts. He looked at the old gasket and all the ports line up right. He said as far as the exhaust leak you could probably get away with putting silicone in the hogged out bolt holes.
but the manifold does seem to be milled because all the ports match up just right. from the pics you can see were the there isn't enough metal to put pressure on the gasket. Now he did say if you want take the intake off and put silicone, I got copper around all the bolt holes, and that should do the trick.
What do you guys think? Thats exactly what I was thinking of doing new gasket, and copper around the bolt holes should do the trick, since everything lines up.
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It sure would be worth a try doing that. And beside you are going to tell more about it once you get it on the road, instead of idling around. If might surprise you once you get it out and about.
 
TTA984 said:
It sure would be worth a try doing that. And beside you are going to tell more about it once you get it on the road, instead of idling around. If might surprise you once you get it out and about.
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Yes Mike Id just hate to take it out again, but I think this will fix it, or should I get a new intake???
And yes if I would of known what i was up against I wouldnt have taken the TA apart just of yet. But EBay! lol
 
TTAGUY said:
Yes Mike Id just hate to take it out again, but I think this will fix it, or should I get a new intake???
And yes if I would of known what i was up against I wouldnt have taken the TA apart just of yet. But EBay! lol
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Marcel, maybe some of the others with a lot of internal engine experience will chime in, like WS6 or Jarredsoon.

Also when you took your TTA apart you didn't know you had a intake problem.
 
TTA984 said:
Marcel, maybe some of the others with a lot of internal engine experience will chime in, like WS6 or Jarredsoon.

Also when you took your TTA apart you didn't know you had a intake problem.
Click to expand...


Sure didnt mike he said rebuilt engine able to take 500 hp, lol. I drove it for 15 mins home, a little rough but it has been sitting for a few years. So took it apart to start restoration. Then little by little started seeing there was more to it, nothing i cant handle just a bit pissed because people bullshit. But I will do it right and #77, will be brought back to life.
But yes any other people can give their opinions please.
And I appreciate your help Mike, good guy.
 
I'm not feelin' the love for the silicone idea. From looking at your previous thread and this one,I'd say you've got a couple options in front of you. You could have a brass bushing made to slip around those 2 intake bolts, kinda making them "shoulder bolts".

Or, what I would do and that is to have those 2 holes in the intake tig'd up and re drilled correctly. And while I was at it I'd grind out the EGR tower and tig up the hole in the intake base and do away with the EGR alltogether.


I feel the silicone idea wont hold up very long and you"ll be back into it again.


And as suggested, another intake is an option.



....
 
How clean are your matting surfaces? I use what I call a wizer 90 deg. Air drill with like a soft scotch bright disk on it. Check heads & manifold with striate edge & feeler gauge up & down parts
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I was thinking about putting washers or half washers as well, between the intake and gasket. They just hogged out the bolt holes a bit much, to were theres not enough metal to press down on the gasket but not much. Instead of silicone, what about liquid copper? i used it on my o2 housing on the SRT-4, and np's and its been over 20k miles on it.
If I was to get a new intake, where??? How much???
When I took it out the first time everything was straight with a straight edge. No other leaks except right there at the egr. Also egr is gone if they only had a gasket that blocked off the egr, it would be solved.
i really dont want to mess with this again, but I must say, lol I can have it out now less than an hour.
I do appreciate all the help getting ideas now.
 
Some builders will fill the EGR passage(s) in the head with lead or some sort of epoxy then mill it flat...but that's more than you probably want to do.

Im not familiar with liquid copper, so I cant testify to whether it will hold up.

Lower intakes can go from $50 to $150 depending on the seller and it's condition, of course plus shipping you could be in at $170 on the high side.

I advocate fixing what you have...and I still suggest welding up those holes and redrilling them at your machinist.


...
 
WS6, thanks bud for all the advice. I will post when i get back to the car and work on it. The welding and then drilling new holes seems like a great idea, since its not tight on the gasket by much.
 
Just a quick updated, its been a month or so since I started #77. This is what I did to her.

1 - Installed the intake manifold, new gasket and liquid copper around the bolts, since the bolt holes were hogged out.

2 - New upper radiator hose, and coolant.

3 - New inlet and intake pipes 3", with new T-bolt clamps and silicone hoses.

4 - LT1 maf and maf translator.

So I started her up and..... well no intake exhaust leak!!!:) She started right up never stalled, and I must say, that LT1 maf makes a diiferance!
I drove her around for about 5 mins, and she ran very strong.

I didn't do any tuneing (thanks Robert), because I have to disconnect the battery. Also tomorrow is the last day for sanding, and such, because this Saturday she is getting her paint job, Sunday getting put back together, and a new windshield.:clap:

Just want to say thank you for everybody that helped me out so far, and for answering all my newbie questions. Next month interior, and weather stripping.

Thanks guys/gals,
Marcel
 
Sounds good Mon, greetings from Jamaica, the storm is going to miss us. Well, I do have my TTA with me, that is small diecast model.

Glad your TTA is coming together!!
 
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