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Just about finished

WS6

Stay thirsty my friends
From a blown headgasket to this...

.020 over and decked
Forged CP custom pistons on resized 2 dot rods
Align bore and billet center caps
208/208 flat tappet billet tru roller timing set
3 angle valve job, heads touched up(surface) already had been ported by previous owner.Stainless valves.Cut the guides down to accept comp seals.
Harland sharp roller rockers in 1.6
Earl Brown front cover mods and new pump and gears
TE44 sent back to Precision for rebuild.
Rebuilt throttle body.
Ported intake and doghouse,welded up EGR.
Many other things done,just listed the basics.

I tried to take the best of "what works" and apply that to this build within the contraints of a reasonable budget build.
I paid for all machine work and assembled everything but the heads myself.
Should be ready to fire up this weekend...or earlier.

NOTE; The poor TTA in the background is looking sad with it's hood and nose off.I had to get the nose repainted because of a tragic trailer loading accident.

Also notice the A/C delete pulley.


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Looking good, very similar to mine :-) Hope it runs well when you get it back into your TTA !!!


The conical valve cover breathers do they have a anti drain back feature in the tube at the bottom ... I'm getting oil pushed out of my passanger side breather so interested to know what you ended up using on yours?
 
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Are those gaskets I see on the headers...or just copper RTV?

Looking good!!!

Copper RTV...no gaskets,I've learned from your mistake. I had the headers surfaced too.

Jan, I'm not sure what's going to happen with all 4 of my breathers.Like all Harland sharp users I had to remove the shroud inside. I made those extensions out of an old tranny dipstick tube to help alleviate any oil saturation. But the machinist told me they will weep unless I put some sort of shroud back in. Or at least make some sort of baffle to fit in the tubes and for the twist in breathers. He showed me one that the circle track guys run in thier breathers and he says it works well. I think I can make them for all 4 but I'll need aluminum washers and some sheet stock, then tig something up.

Getting rid of the A/C for now,I removed everything but the evap box and stored it away. Ironically someone gave me 4.5 lbs of R12 this past winter. So I'll store that too.

QUESTION...I don't recall if the motor mount "through bolts" come from the back with the nuts on the front or the other way around.





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QUESTION...I don't recall if the motor mount "through bolts" come from the back with the nuts on the front or the other way around.....

This has been debated before and I forget the answer. I searched and couldn't find it. If I recall, Jan did his backwards...He will remember.
 
Good...I hope he comes back online before tomorrow.

FWIW...you all may have notice the 1/4" brake line extending over the turbo. I'm plumbing that for an inline filter. My buddy tried one out last year and it worked slicker than owl shit.

We got the idea from an old TB post about turbo oil filters, and some of the DIY'ers suggested this brand.
http://www.emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm

So we called and talked to thier tech about using it as a turbo filter and they said no problem and it has a safety bypass if it gets plugged up.



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This has been debated before and I forget the answer. I searched and couldn't find it. If I recall, Jan did his backwards...He will remember.

Nope did them front to back (so nut closest to the firewall if you like); I asked around and that was the answer I got from some low milage owners :-)
 
Jan, I'm not sure what's going to happen with all 4 of my breathers.Like all Harland sharp users I had to remove the shroud inside. I made those extensions out of an old tranny dipstick tube to help alleviate any oil saturation. But the machinist told me they will weep unless I put some sort of shroud back in. Or at least make some sort of baffle to fit in the tubes and for the twist in breathers. He showed me one that the circle track guys run in thier breathers and he says it works well. I think I can make them for all 4 but I'll need aluminum washers and some sheet stock, then tig something up.....

Like your setup I got the Harland Sharp rockers and removed the splash shields on the inside of the VCs :-(

I got my K&N filters pushed ontop of the rubber elbows ... been looking to do some sort of baffle ... some of the larger vent filters do have one at the bottom ... but I've been looking at something like this if I can find the right size: #822 - Valve Cover Breather Tube Kit, Aluminum : eBay Motors (item 370310899297 end time Apr-22-10 21:46:59 PDT)

Or a baffle of some sort (fabricate one) I can either push down in the rubber elbow or put on the filter opening somehow ... defenitly need something.
 
lookin nice why only a 44 ?

Good question...clearly the engine could support a much bigger turbo. But my chip is burned for this turbo,my convertor is a 2800 stall,my tranny is just a Janis stage one and my rear end is still the original 9 bolt.

As somebody once said about racing "Cheap,Fast,Reliable...pick two" This build was done on the cheap or inexpensive as I could allow it, but it was built with quality parts and I made up the difference with sweat equity.I want it to be reliable to see weekly track duty and yet take me there and back an hour each way,without fail and be driven regularly on the street.
So, I gave up fast...of course fast is subjective. To me fast is 10.99 or faster. To go that fast I needed a bigger turbo, a higher stall convertor, a new chip burned,probably have the tranny back to Vince and an aftermarket rearend...and all of those are not cheap.

I'm looking for 11.5 to 12.00 consistently without parts breakage.

I do have a TE62 on the shelf though,it needs about $450 worth of work,but I'm not sure it will work with my 2800 N/L convertor very well.

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