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Loose Steering
- Thread starter TTA855
- Start date
fbody4me
Well-Known Member
I found this on Thirdgen.org.
How to: Tighten tilt steering w/pictures - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
I did this some years back to a GTA I owned and from what I remember it wasn't too bad of a job to do. Hope that helps.
How to: Tighten tilt steering w/pictures - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
I did this some years back to a GTA I owned and from what I remember it wasn't too bad of a job to do. Hope that helps.
fbody4me
Well-Known Member
I may have misread your post. If you meant the column then follow the previous post. If you meant the gear box then you can take some of the slop out by adjusting the lash. Also there might be some play in the steering from the rag joint. A lot of guys replace the steering shaft with ones out of Jeeps or Astro vans because they don't have the rag joint. Google astro van steering shaft.
TTA855
White lightning drinker
Thanks for your posts fbody. You're right, I don't have a wobbly column; instead, my steering wheel turns a couple of inches before the front wheels turn. Thanks for your link to thirdgen.org; I found a video there that shows where the steering box is and how to tighten it using an allen key on the top bolt. Is that what you mean by adjusting the lash?
fbody4me
Well-Known Member
Yes you can adjust the lash by loosening that nut and turn the allen wrench clockwise to tighten it up but be careful because you can tighten it too much and then you will be replacing your gear box. I do believe that there is a procedure in the factory service manual on how to do this. Do you have a manual? Also before you adjust anything I would first take that plastic cover off the steering shaft and make sure your rag joint is not the problem.
DynoDave
Well-Known Member
Agree with that.
A little bit of room at the center is normal. A little. A couple of inches sounds excessive. Beyond the box, other steering components can also cuase this...tie rods, etc. Be sure to check their condition (if you have not already) before make adjustments to the box.
TTA855
White lightning drinker
My mechanic found the idler arm was worn out, and the steering box and wheel bearings were a little loose. He ordered a new idler arm for $30, which should come in today.
He also discovered a missing bracket. The first picture is of the bracket on the driver side; the second is of where the passenger side bracket should be.
Does anyone know what this bracket is called and what it is for, and most importantly, where I can find one?
Thanks!
He also discovered a missing bracket. The first picture is of the bracket on the driver side; the second is of where the passenger side bracket should be.
Does anyone know what this bracket is called and what it is for, and most importantly, where I can find one?
Thanks!
Phil Leinbach
Active Member
Once you get your worn parts taken care of it would never be a bad idea to do the steering box adjustment on a 28 year old car.
Here it is:
1) disconnect the pitman arm either from the box or the drag link.
2) remove the steering wheel center to access the steering shaft nut.
3) use a 1/4" drive flex beam torque wrench (I got mine at a swap meet for $5), and adapt it for 1/2" drive, to measure the rotational torque of the steering shaft.
4) Since the sector gear is machined as a crown, the output shaft of the box will have zero backlash only in the straight position. Adjust the Allen screw on the top of the box so the max torque at the peak of the crown is 13 in lbs. When you attain this reading, and define where the peak is, that is the straight position for the box. If the car was assembled properly at the factory the steering wheel should also be in the straight position. If it's not, remove it and put it in the straight position. Any further centering of the steering wheel is done by adjusting the tie rod ends.
5) reconnect the pitman arm and get a front end alignment if needed.
Here it is:
1) disconnect the pitman arm either from the box or the drag link.
2) remove the steering wheel center to access the steering shaft nut.
3) use a 1/4" drive flex beam torque wrench (I got mine at a swap meet for $5), and adapt it for 1/2" drive, to measure the rotational torque of the steering shaft.
4) Since the sector gear is machined as a crown, the output shaft of the box will have zero backlash only in the straight position. Adjust the Allen screw on the top of the box so the max torque at the peak of the crown is 13 in lbs. When you attain this reading, and define where the peak is, that is the straight position for the box. If the car was assembled properly at the factory the steering wheel should also be in the straight position. If it's not, remove it and put it in the straight position. Any further centering of the steering wheel is done by adjusting the tie rod ends.
5) reconnect the pitman arm and get a front end alignment if needed.
