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Paint yellowing

W

wqcode

Well-Known Member
Some of the plastic body pcs. on my TTA are starting to yellow. Has anyone had any luck sanding and buffing this out or any other sugestion.DontKnow:
 
Happened to my 89 GTA in 1989, So Don't know. I even had paint flake of the rocker panels on the GTA that year. Maybe it's just old paint tech.
 
Today I sanded the passenger door sill with 1000 grit wet paper and buffed it out. Now I have a shiney light yellow door sill. It appears to be all the way through the clear coat. It must need a repaint. I wouldn't care but both front fender ground effects are starting to yellow:censor:
 
Is the paint an off white or a bright white? I always thought the TTA was an off white with a slight shade of yellow or a very light creme color but not a bright white. Not sure if I am using the correct names of colors but to me TTA's and GTA's that were white were an off white color.
 
It's the clear coat that was originally used, it's yellowed from UV rays. I was surprised when I was on the power tour and met up with Steve on the Power Tour with his freshly repainted TTA compared with my original one it's a huge difference.

Now for what Rodimus was talking about from the seals like in the door jams, I've always been able to buff this out on my car with some heavy compound.
 
Maybe it is me. I am asking what the color was from the factory? Slightly off white or a bright white? I am buying a TTA with 8K miles and the paint looks off white and not that very bright white I have seen by other manufacturers. The car has been garaged its whole life and for the last nine years has never left the garage or been started.
 
The paint code for 1986-1990 Trans Am and GTA, including 20th T/A, is 40U (WA8554 or WA9737) and was simply reffered to as white by GM, though some paint manufacturers call it super white or super white II. Starting in 1991 GM switched to 10U (WA9567) which was also called white untill 1992 when the name was changed to arctic white. The original paint was not considered a bright white, like the arctic white used on later models.

Now apparently the paint quality was not that great back then and these cars tend to develop a patina, some more severe than others, and it appears regardless of miles or sun exposure. Over time people have come to expect the weathered look of the factory paint, and it can be quite a diference. Just ask anybody who has had to paint any section of their car, the correct paint will not match and has to be adjusted to the patina of the original paint unless you paint the entire car like I did.

Here's a few pictures for comparison

My freshly painted #124 is on the right and my 60K mile original #850 is on the left

You can see the patina, or weathered look of #850 against the correct hue of #124.

And a pic from the power tour, my car on the right and Jared's car on the left
DSC05909.jpg


Hope that helps,
Steve
 
Thanks Steve. I was looking at all your photos. I see on your door sill you have a tan plastic cover. Did you add this. The cars I have seen did not have this. were some of your pics on LI at Captree or OBI? Thanks for the info,

Joe
 
I'm not sure which tan panel your referring to but nothing was added to the interiors of my cars, some parts have been replaced like the headliner on #124 but maintain the original appearance.

Yeah some of the pics are from OBI and Captree, I try to get out as much as I can and hit some of the Long Island and New Jersey shows.
 
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