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Who is running a Janis transmission?

WS6

WS6

Stay thirsty my friends
What stage build do you run and how much HP or torque is in front of it?



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I have one, I don't really remember what level it is I just told him what I was looking to do to the car and what ETs I was expecting. I haven't had any problems with it yet, I dropped it off at his shop and he seemed very knowledgable about the 200-4R and they're laying all over his shop. He gave us a nice tour and I felt comfortable with him building it.

With that said, my car put down like 360rwhp and 456rwtq on about 20 psi, since then I've been running around 23-25 psi so I'd say I was putting down around 380rwhp. I have a PT51 and a ProTorque 3000 l/u stall and then just the normal supporting mods.
 
Okay, sounds like you have what he described as his stage 1 build. Capable of supporting 450+ HP. Stage 2 contains billet pieces and will go upwards of 700 HP. Or as he also used 1/4 times of stage 1 supporting a mid 11 car and stage 2 supporting a low 10 car. Both at thier limits though.

His prices are extremely reasonable considering his perfect reputation and status within the turbo Buick community.

My dilemma is that my current stock trans is giving me no trouble with just the shift kit in it. But with a TE44 50lb injectors,bigger DP and my shameless pounding of the car. How much more can she withstand?
Do I do it now? or wait till it starts flaring....in the summer or when ever?

What would you guys do??




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WS6 said:
Okay, sounds like you have what he described as his stage 1 build. Capable of supporting 450+ HP. Stage 2 contains billet pieces and will go upwards of 700 HP. Or as he also used 1/4 times of stage 1 supporting a mid 11 car and stage 2 supporting a low 10 car. Both at thier limits though.

His prices are extremely reasonable considering his perfect reputation and status within the turbo Buick community.

My dilemma is that my current stock trans is giving me no trouble with just the shift kit in it. But with a TE44 50lb injectors,bigger DP and my shameless pounding of the car. How much more can she withstand?
Do I do it now? or wait till it starts flaring....in the summer or when ever?

What would you guys do??




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Click to expand...

Actually I think I got the Stage 2, because I told him to go ahead and build it to handle like mid 10s and I remember that there are a few billet parts.

In my opinion if you're just planning on running the TE-44 keep the stocker, but if you're gunna upgrade go ahead and have it built, most of the time it'll cost you more later if you just let it go since chances are it'll damage something else.
 
Well, I pulled the the transmission today,for a variety of reasons but mainly piece of mind and I think my convertor is poorly matched for my needs.
Vince is going to do the stage 1 build and he's going to sell me a convertor. I'm going to stick with the non lock and I'm going down to 2800 stall.

Sound like the right move??

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why no lockup? i have a 2800 lockup and its great on the street so if youre going to be streeting it much thats probably a good stall.
 
X2. Several vendors tried to talk me into a non-lock converter and I'm glad I didn't listen. If you're getting a new converter pay the money for the PI 5 disk vigilante. It is a few more dollars but you can lock it at the end of the track for a couple extra MPH. I cheaped out and got the less expensive vigilante (3 disk I think) which actually works great I just can't lock it full throttle.

Either way, no matter what the brand, I'd to a lockup all over again for fuel economy and those low RPM's on the highway. Just my $.02.

Let us know what you do and how you like it!
 
Well? I'm currently running a non lock up. So there's no changes to be made. And phone calls and e-mails to T/C vendors has them telling me that a non lock is a better choice for how I use this car, It's not a daily driver and for reasons I don't understand they tell me a lock up is hard on the transmission for these 200R4's.

But I'll have the discussion with Janis again and see if he can give me better argument for staying with the non lock.



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Dropped off the trans at Janis this morning and spent about a half an hour chatting about convertors and 200R4's in general. Nice guy, not what I expected him to look like after speaking to him on the phone. He's much younger than I thought he would have been. He's quite the GN and T-type collector and racer. He even owned a TTA that was sold to someone in Texas.
Before I even mentioned convertor brands or stalls he railed on the Vigilante disk convertors(sorry fellas)on how hard they are on the internals,especially locked up. So that's off the table, said he would call his convertor builder in california and see what they suggest for stall. He's still thinking 3000+, I'm thinking 2800,so we'll see.
 
I can definately see how locking the converter at WOT would be hard on trans internals. So is drag racing.

I don't understand how a lockup converter would be hard on internals though if not locking it at WOT. Did he talk about that at all? I am not locking my converter at WOT right now and my goal of the lockup was not for getting the 2mph from locking it but rather lower highway RPM. I'd love to hear more about this part if he has advice.

Thanks,
 
A NL converter is a lot more efficient unlocked than a locking converter unlocked is.

If you don't drive the car much on the street it is worth the extra MPH on the track.
 
Quiky One said:
A NL converter is a lot more efficient unlocked than a locking converter unlocked is.

If you don't drive the car much on the street it is worth the extra MPH on the track.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure what you are saying??

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There's an interesting thread going on over at TB in the Transmission section about locked vs.unlocked.



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Last edited:
Straight from Dusty Bradford. I knew I kept PM's for a reason.

The bad boy of the non locks is my 9.5 like you see in TSM, TSO and Gallina's 6 second car. This is the non lock that spools very well and can net slip #'s in the 3-5% range. It's entirely different than any other converter out there. Pricing is $950. It is not needed until a car reaches the high 10 range. An 11 second car can use it and it will work very well. It's just more than most want to buy at that point. If you have future plans of going to a 67mm and pushing the car harder it would be a better choice.
Click to expand...

A non lock converter will be in the 3-5% efficiency range ALL the time.

A lock up converter running unlocked will be in the 8-12% efficiency range.

See my point? The true test will be when I race in a few weeks. I was trapping 121-122 at 5900 RPM's. Hopefully I will be trapping 124-125 at that OR a lower RPM at 121-122.
 
WS6 said:
I'm not quite sure what you are saying??

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There's an interesting thread going on over at TB in the Transmission section about locked vs.unlocked.



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Click to expand...

On second thought, I have a GREAT 10" locking converter with 200 miles on it. 3200 stall. Wanna buy it? :thumbup:

If I were you I would go lockup all the way and just buy mine! :yes:
 
Quiky One said:
Straight from Dusty Bradford. I knew I kept PM's for a reason.



A non lock converter will be in the 3-5% efficiency range ALL the time.

A lock up converter running unlocked will be in the 8-12% efficiency range.

See my point? The true test will be when I race in a few weeks. I was trapping 121-122 at 5900 RPM's. Hopefully I will be trapping 124-125 at that OR a lower RPM at 121-122.
Click to expand...

Did you switch convertors again? Non-lock? 2800? You in Bowling Green this year?
 
Vince called to tell me that he is having one built for me, it is an non-lock 2800 stall. He factored in my goals,turbo,inj's,etc and rear ratio. And feels this is the best choice. I believe it'll be 10" billet cover unit....or did he say 9.5" ??? we talked about both?
 
RatFink said:
Did you switch convertors again? Non-lock? 2800? You in Bowling Green this year?
Click to expand...

Yes I switched...This is the last one I ever plan to buy. 3k stall. Also have a new fully billet/rollerized tranny.

Uhhh...I have reservations and tickets, but if I can't get the tranny mount fixed I won't be racing. For some reason under boost my tranny lifts and the driveshaft hits the ds loop.

Sure hope I can get the parts in, in time and that is the fix.
 
Quiky One said:
Yes I switched...This is the last one I ever plan to buy. 3k stall. Also have a new fully billet/rollerized tranny.

Uhhh...I have reservations and tickets, but if I can't get the tranny mount fixed I won't be racing. For some reason under boost my tranny lifts and the driveshaft hits the ds loop.

Sure hope I can get the parts in, in time and that is the fix.
Click to expand...

Very Awesome, whod' you get your tranny stuff from?
 
WS6 said:
Vince called to tell me that he is having one built for me, it is an non-lock 2800 stall. He factored in my goals,turbo,inj's,etc and rear ratio. And feels this is the best choice. I believe it'll be 10" billet cover unit....or did he say 9.5" ??? we talked about both?
Click to expand...

Does he have a website?
 
RatFink said:
Does he have a website?
Click to expand...

Janis??... nope...word of mouth and reputation. I just called and spoke with him directly. (330) 753-6609

His wife mentioned she was working on a website for him though.



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El Dee Bee said:
I have a Janis trans and am happy w it. He is also very helpful and knowledgable.
Click to expand...

I have one on my 500 HP GN, and it is holding up well. He also seems very knowledgable. I blew the 1st rebuild - my fault - and he repaired it very reasonably, so it appears that he will stand by U.

My little "learn the hard way" lesson - when U check the trans oil, run thru the gears after adding oil. Otherwise the oil doesn't get into the trans and gives U a false high reading on the stick. Just to show U how much difference it makes - my stick showed "full", and I was 4 qts low and then blew the trans @ the track.

Oh well, live & learn.
 
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