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Normal Oil Pressure At Warm Idle

yeah jack merkle re did all my oil passages an did mods to the oil pump it has really good oil pressure hot.

yours look awsome
 
I've done allot, I mean allot of homework, on setting up the Buick V6 oil pump correctly.I've done all the front cover mods and some that never make it to forum boards.

And it's my opinion that if you're running any oil heavier than 10w/30 or 10W/40 to maintain HOT idle oil pressure above 20 psi in drive. Then you you are covering up a problem.

Whether you are aware of the problem or not, you have an issue....it could be incorrect end clearances in the pump or bearing clearence(s) that have become too wide.

The problems that can arise from using heavier single weight oils or multi viscosity racing oils that are heavier than typical are that at cold start up you run unfiltered oil through the bypass into the engine and you continually put a strain on the #1 cam bearing.

My very first mistake was running 20w/50 to cover up a low idle oil pressure only to make it worse as it took the babbitt off the #1 cam bearing.

so....use heavier oils with this in mind please.




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Secondly....don't put allot of faith in factory gauges....it appears you're coolant gauge and your scanmaster are almost 18* off each other.


So imagine how far off the other gauges are as well.



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As far as the heavier oil, it is simply not needed, more pressure could be achieved with the heavier oil, but like WS6 said it is not good. Better be safe than sorry with a lighter oil.

As far as the Pics. of the Scanmaster and the factory gauge, they were taken minutes apart, so more acturate in real life. I still bet the factory gauges are still off. I never did trust those factory gauges!
 
As a matter of fact the factory oil pressure gauge in my Syclone reads about 70psi. after warmed up idling. We know thats not right.
 
I'm running 10W40 as I can't get 10W30 for some reason over here (known brand name mineral oil that is).

I need to check the full rpm range when hot but it drops down some but keeps very good pressure ... not driven it for a while so can't remember at the moment (must be age).

I thought it was on the high side when I got my engine together years ago and asked on tb.com and everyone seemed to think my readings where good and I should have no issues or worry about it ... ?

But yes not sure how accurate the stock gauge is ...
 
My dash Oil pressure gauge runs about 6-8 psi higher on average than my Mechanical 0-100 gauge.

Now it's not a linear difference,they get farther apart at either end of the RPM range,but not much.

I think 10W/40 is perfect....you guys want a real test? Get the car good and hot....do a full WOT blast of at least 1/4 of a mile....then check the hot idle pressure in gear,at idle after that.

Any weakness will show then.



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I had just changed the oil in 818 and was going to try 10-40 VR-1 but forgot, 20-50 was the oil Jim Dunn was running when he had it, i think it would be okay with 10-30 or 10-40 (maybe straight 30) as the oil press. is over 40psi at hot idle but that is the fac. gauge so i will get a mech. gauge before i try it...i ain't scared of no ghost's...;)
 
My dash Oil pressure gauge runs about 6-8 psi higher on average than my Mechanical 0-100 gauge.

Now it's not a linear difference,they get farther apart at either end of the RPM range,but not much.

I think 10W/40 is perfect....you guys want a real test? Get the car good and hot....do a full WOT blast of at least 1/4 of a mile....then check the hot idle pressure in gear,at idle after that.

Any weakness will show then.



....


I did a couple WOT blast today, much hotter than yesterday when it was raining and the TTA was inside when I checked the gauges.

So after getting it hot after 2 WOT launches I checked the oil pressure with it in drive. I was a little lower than yesterday, maybe just a few marks lower.

But at WOT and rpms in the 5k range with 20# boost and "no knock" it did pretty good.

You gotta remember I ain't no racer and I doubt this TTA has ever been to a track. Just like to have fun with it a keep it running good, lots of fun indeed!!ttarider
 
"no knock" is everything with these cars,so it appears your in a great position with it.

I reccomend you take it to the track and have some fun with it, you won't regret it.

It can take it especially if the tune is spot on.


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The point i was trying to make is if you are scared of breaking something you own the wrong car, like Clint Eastwood said if you want a guarantee buy a toaster... but then i have the luxury of one to beat on and one to baby...:D

I just thought it was funny cause it reminded me of Ghostbusters.... :)

I brake my car all the time, remember when my iac valve just disintegrated without a reason? Just got my rear end problem fixed, bought a moser 12 bolt with brake kit. Ugh, good thing I love these cars!!
 
My GN has had hot idle pressure around 10psi for 20 years now, always heard that 10psi per 1000 rpms was good enough...so far it has been. Has never decreased from that with hundreds of passes at the track and way more than that on the road. Never any knock as that is closely monitored. Has had same vacuum at 18 also at idle so the cam lobes are the same over that period... But maybe the weak one is already flat too, but rarely see one with more vac.
 
I just thought it was funny cause it reminded me of Ghostbusters.... :)

I brake my car all the time, remember when my iac valve just disintegrated without a reason? Just got my rear end problem fixed, bought a moser 12 bolt with brake kit. Ugh, good thing I love these cars!!

Jarred i know you ain't scared of ANYTHING, you live in Canada with no cable..:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Secondly....don't put allot of faith in factory gauges....it appears you're coolant gauge and your scanmaster are almost 18* off each other.


So imagine how far off the other gauges are as well.



...

My car has 36,000 miles, and my factory gauge shows similar to yours, but my Auto meter gauge shows about 10 psi at warm idle. As far as I know everything is in good working order.
 
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