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ding-a ling

R

robert lee

Gold Member
anybody know how to adjust the parking brake cables on these cars? my little ding-a-ling that was annoying as hell turned out to be the stud where the parking brake cables meet in a y over the driveshaft, i will replace everything brake-wise over the winter but for now i would love to fix that very annoying noise :boxing:
 
robert lee said:
anybody know how to adjust the parking brake cables on these cars? my little ding-a-ling that was annoying as hell turned out to be the stud where the parking brake cables meet in a y over the driveshaft, i will replace everything brake-wise over the winter but for now i would love to fix that very annoying noise :boxing:
Click to expand...

Robert, Kinda reminds me of an old song!!!

So dingy they mispelled Chuck.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MLBfwblps8
 
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problem solved, ding-a-ling noise fixed for the time being. i was looking through old post's on brakes and just wondering if any of you guy's have have any feedback on the rotor's, pad's, caliper's....ect, that ya'll bought :detective:
 
Yeah, I spent some time putting brakes on the car and fiddling around with the proportioning valve by changing pressure to the rear calipers in attempt to get them to hold better at the line.

Off the top of my head I don't think there is an adjustable yoke on the cable(s) for our cars, but I should look before I committ to that statment.

In my research of the rear brakes on our cars I came across a TSB(technical service bulletin) that addressed poor E-brake holding of the PBR calipers. It basicaly said that yanking up the E-brake handle 20 times in row ratchets up the mechanism to make it grab harder.
 
WS6 said:
And these are the front rotors I bought along with EBC GREEN pads
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSR-126-80003SL/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSR-126-80003SR/

and I put Earl's braided stainless lines on replacing all the rubber flex lines. Those I bought from Jeni at Hawk's 3rd gen.
Click to expand...
rotor's look good, whats the best non-dusting pad's? my little ding-a-ling was caused by the e- cable not releasing, caused the cable to come off the guide on the floor-pan then the whole brace was dancing on the drive-shaft, sounded like the car was falling apart(cable at the caliper not releasing). i have got to buy a lift, this car is killing me
 
8289ta said:
How did you adjust the proportioning valve?
Click to expand...


There's a spring in it that controls pressure to the rear line. I bought 3 different springs from Grainger that had the same dimensions but different compression rates and tried them out till I felt it was less bias on the front. I'll have to dig out my papers and get the spring rates and show you guys how I did it.

It definitely helped make the car stop faster, but did very little to help me hold boost at the line.

I would not, however, do this to car that saw any rainy day use because I'm afraid it may tend to lock up the rears in a panic stop situation. On dry pavement it's still fine.

Robert:
I think any non ferrous pad, like ceramic, is low dust. But it's my experience that Semi metallic have a better initial bite and haul the car down faster than ceramic. I know many of you will disagree,but I've run ceramic on this car and my truck and ended up going back to semi metallic and foregone the dust.I'd love to find a way to keep the brake dust down with these pads.
 
I always thought the dry stopping distances were terribly long. Seems to me a little more rear brakes would help. In the dry at least.

If you have ever had someone stop short in front of you, you know, it is just about a futile attempt to stand on that brake pedal while the cruise missile slowly comes to a gradual stop. It is pretty much useless without a tremendous distance. Otherwise you would be well advised to try to steer around the obstacle. (you can take a curb at a pretty good clip if you do it at the right angle and don't look underneath afterwards)

Ever notice it seems 1/2 of these cars have new front bumpers and/or front fenders? Some were even crashed on dealers lots. (you know the thing, where you first get in the car, and you think, Turbo trans am huh? Well, a trans am is fast, so a turbo trans am must be faster. So you step on the pedal. Nothing. this can't be right... so you press more. By now, 2 seconds has gone by and you are just about done sliding sideways, you've hooked up, and are now about to hit something in front of you because you are now all the way on the other side of the parking lot doing 30mph with no room left.)
 
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Many years ago I offered board members an opportunity to significantly upgrade their stopping capability and brake pad / rotor life. At that time, several members purchased through me the Cross - Drilled and Slotted Rotors along with the Graphite Semi-Metallic Street Pads produced by SP Performance. This company provides the very best machine work on a OEM equivalent or better rotor. I remember Frank Weeks commenting that it was the best upgrade he had done to his TTA; Frank was an original owner of his TTA. I have used these brake components on many of my vehicles and have installed them on numerous vehicles, from Truck / SUV to 2 seat sport cars. Most recently, I installed a set of rotors and pads on a Honda Civic Sedan. The owner could not believe the stopping capability difference. These are an OEM direct replacement and require no additional parts. If several of you are interested, I will arrange for a group purchase direct from the owner of the company, a long time business associate of mine. I will look for your replies and go from there. I think you will be surprised at the affordability of this system.

All the best,

Rich
 
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