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Fram Oil Filter

k9flip

k9flip

Active Member
I was wondering what everyone taught about a Fram Oil Filter for my TTA. I got my oil changed today and thats what the put on the car. I am using Mobile 1 Synthetic...
 
k9flip said:
I was wondering what everyone taught about a Fram Oil Filter for my TTA. I got my oil changed today and thats what the put on the car. I am using Mobile 1 Synthetic...
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Most of us use the Napa Gold 1086 or the Wix 51086 on our cars, they seem to be the best ones. They are the same as Wix makes the filters for Napa.
 
k9flip said:
I was wondering what everyone taught about a Fram Oil Filter for my TTA. I got my oil changed today and thats what the put on the car. I am using Mobile 1 Synthetic...
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I know you just put that oil in... but... you might want to drain it, it's alot easier than fixing leak's (and cheaper) do not use synthetic oil and like Mike said ad ZDDP, just my crazy little opinion :cool1:
 
I haven't heard too many good things about Fram filters. They have cardboard end caps, and their anti- drain back valves suck. Do an Internet search. It scared me enough that I brought one back and exchanged it.
 
I agree on the filter , Fram is cheap. As far as oil goes , I can't see how anything can be better than a synthetic oil. It has a higher load value and temp rating. I guess the only thing better would be synthetic with a zinc additive.
 
hoser said:
I agree on the filter , Fram is cheap. As far as oil goes , I can't see how anything can be better than a synthetic oil. It has a higher load value and temp rating. I guess the only thing better would be synthetic with a zinc additive.
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your car, do as you wish just offering good advise :thumbup:
 
Been in the automotive trade for 23 years and have run synthetic oils in all 5 of my current automobiles and clients as well without an oil leak. I agree there is a lower zinc level in oils in the last 5 years and you need as much protection as possible with flat tappet cams. My opinion is that synthetic is superior to mineral oil , that's all.
 
Thank You everyone for the advice... I am a new owner of these cars and I just dont want to screw anything up. My car only has 12,000 miles on it. The guy I bought the car off told me he was using Mobile 1 and was adding Zmax... So, I tried to keep it like that way, because there are no leaks.. I screwed up with the oil filter, so I might drain it out and change that.. Oh well, I should read more post on here before I do anything...LOL.. Thanks again...
 
may want to look into the Purolator Pure one filters too. Highly regarded and I have been using em for many years. Easy to get too
 
hoser said:
Been in the automotive trade for 23 years and have run synthetic oils in all 5 of my current automobiles and clients as well without an oil leak.
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TTA? lol No leaks with synthetic?

Joe
 
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k9flip said:
I am using Mobile 1 Synthetic...
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I wouldn't run Mobil 1 synthetic.

Just run Penzoil or Castrol 10W30 Conventional oil and a bottle of ZDDP.
Use the WIX or Napa 1086 filter. Prolly cost you under 40 dollars if you did it yourself.


Joe
 
Since I upgraded to 100 lb valve springs I run Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 10W30 (plenty of Zink & Phosphorous) and NAPA Gold 1086...before that Mobil1 10W30 & the 1086.
 
I use Mobil 1 on all my vehicles ,however when I tried it in my TTA it pretty much poured out through the rear main seal on my garage floor !
Good luck if it works for you !
 
robert lee said:
Even with the VR1 you still need to add Zink....
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This has been discussed and talked about over and over again on just about every board on the internet. I have probably read 50-100 reports and articles, have spoken to techs at Aimsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil1, and Valvoline on the phone and they all pretty much have a racing oil that is perfectly acceptable to run with flat tappet and solid lifter cams without additive. It all comes down to how much you want to spend and what brand is easily accessible at your local distributor. For me I have two local shops that stock VR1 so the decision is easy. So in my opinion that comment is not true....VR1 contains just as much Zink and Phosphorous if not more than adding ZDDP to your basic conventional or synthetic oil which many do as did I about 5 years ago. I have been running VR1 for at least the last 4 years, running 24+ psi and racing with no issues. I also hang with a crowd of very serious/competitive racers and most run VR1. I spoke directly to Valvoline as well and was assured that VR1 contained all the Zink & Phosphorous needed for a high performance flat tappet or solid lifter cammed street or racing engine. Also VR1 is not street legal and its use will void the warranty on emission vehicles since blow by will destroy a catalytic converter due to the very high amounts of Z&P. If it makes you feel better by adding more be my guest but in my opinion and also the techs at Valvoline along with the others I mentioned it is a pure waste of money. :cheers:
 
Oil & Filters, the never ending opinion/story.
I have used Synthetic, 5W30 in my 04 Chev Avalanche, 02 Camaro LS1 & most recently in my 94 Trans Am LT1 without issue. The 02 Camaro LS1 has been bone dry wrt, oil leaks for the 8 years I have owned it. The Avalanche just started an oil leak last year, but it's even too small to find. I use only WIX filters. On my GN & TTA I have been using Royal Purple & WIX. Both cars have a very small leak, not even enough to get concerned over. Have had tons of old cars over the years, sooner of later they all leak something, that is a fact.
66 GTO gets Shell 10W40 Dino & the rear main leak like a sieve, one of these days I have to pull the motor & replace every gasket & seal.
 
10w 30 royal purple an wix oilfilters is all i will use im my personal fleet ... had a problem with mobil 1 synthetic drying out over time an making really bad start up noise on 2 GN's switched to Rp never had another problem... my 02 8.1 now has 305,500 something od miles ... I even noticed faster spool up with rp for the first 500 miles ... Ive never added zinc either.
 
When I run Mobil 1 with 21 pounds of boost the valve stems blow off the guides. With 15w40 Rotella it does fine. I don't think the people that rebuilt the heads before I bought the car did the guides right.
 
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