Front suspension rehaul, and oil pan issues

[Benny04]

Just received all my front suspension pieces, spohn arms, moog springs and steering linkage, AGX shocks. First of all the moog spring could not slide into the spohn arm pockets without being compressed beforehand, the way it is designed led me to believe they didn't intend on factory springs being put into them, but that's just my experience.

Anyway, as I was going to pull the oil pan off, which was already unbolted and hanging at this point, I realized there's zero room to remove this thing without jacking the motor up. The pan is stuck between the cross member coming up so high, and the flywheel. Not sure if people have any tricks for this without having to loosen motor mounts and jack up the motor. At that point I would just end up replacing the motor mounts at the same time. Please let me know, I absolutely destroyed this pan trying to get it out lol.

 

[72firebird]

Yeah don't think the oil pan can come out without lifting the motor some. From what I remember I only had to do 1 motor mount and then was able to lift enough on one side to be able to get the pan out. I would probably try to pop those dents out a little when you get it out.

The poly motor mounts are really nice, but just beware IMO they're not an easy straight forward install. You can look at the factory ones, but for the lower half of the mount that bolts to the kmember there are nuts inside the kmember that you access through the a-arm mount holes. They give you a bent wrench to get in there, but fishing the nuts in and getting them started is an adventure. I did mine with the engine out which made it a little easier to get around.

 

[72firebird]

For the springs, I'm not sure if this would work on the Spohn arms, but for the stock arms I used an inner spring compressor. I think I rented this one from Advance Auto (but that was 15+ years ago). Then I used some washers and a piece of pipe as a spacer to keep the bolt on the compressor from hitting the top of the shock tower. The bolt then sticks through the hole on the a-arm. Once it's all installed you just have to fish everything out.

Can't believe I took these pictures and still have them, from before the times of camera phones.

 

[Benny04]

Yeah don't think the oil pan can come out without lifting the motor some. From what I remember I only had to do 1 motor mount and then was able to lift enough on one side to be able to get the pan out. I would probably try to pop those dents out a little when you get it out.

The poly motor mounts are really nice, but just beware IMO they're not an easy straight forward install. You can look at the factory ones, but for the lower half of the mount that bolts to the kmember there are nuts inside the kmember that you access through the a-arm mount holes. They give you a bent wrench to get in there, but fishing the nuts in and getting them started is an adventure. I did mine with the engine out which made it a little easier to get around.

Thanks alot for the response, I have the front end completely taken apart so access to the bolts under the control arms is easy. Does it matter which side I should be loosening to lift it up? Also the dents were from me partially losing my shit. I already have a new oil pan from a junkyard turbo regal powder coated ready to go, just couldn't get this one out.

 

[72firebird]

Thanks alot for the response, I have the front end completely taken apart so access to the bolts under the control arms is easy. Does it matter which side I should be loosening to lift it up? Also the dents were from me partially losing my shit. I already have a new oil pan from a junkyard turbo regal powder coated ready to go, just couldn't get this one out.

I can't remember if there is a preference to lift one side or the other, just need to check clearance if it will clear AC box and brake booster fine then it will just be which is easiest to get to the motor mount.

 

[njtta150]

Remove the bolts from both motor mounts ,trans mount and jack it up. You also will have to turn the crank shaft so it clears the oil pan. It helps if you have a flywheel turner , otherwise use your hands. Then the counterweight from the crank can rotate out of the way.

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[Benny04]

The way it seems from the stuff you guys are saying, it's not worth doing this job without replacing the motor mounts at the same time.

Anyways...
Removed the trans mount, am getting to the motor mounts tomorrow. A couple of turbo Buick guys I know also spoke about the crankshaft weight, is this a necessity, or does it only make it easier? Either way I'll have to see once I get the motor mounts loose. Ordered new mounts from HR since the ones on the car now are cracked, I'm definitely dreading that job, but I refuse to pay another asshole to do my own dirty work. I appreciate the pointers fellas.