hey everybody! i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a fuel pump for my 89 turbo t/a? the car is all stock except for a stainless steel exhaust, green stripe injectors, k&n air filter. the car will turn over all day long but won't start. it ran fine one day and the next day it didn't start! i'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump, the fuse is good, i don't know what else it could be. the car has 74,ooo miles on it. i would like to put a performance pump on it since i am dropping the tank because i plan on putting bigger injecters and a few more upgrades on it in the near future. Is a stock fuel pump good enough with the bigger injecters or do i need something with higher performance? Does anybody have any tips on dropping the fuel tank that can help m e with the process? Can anyone tell me where i can buy the proper fuel pump that i will need? any help would be greatly apperciated. THANK YOU!!! :smile:
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fuel pump
- Thread starter turbod
- Start date
Stock Fuel Pump number is EP242 and or EP261.. try a GM dealer or Delco stockist.
Taking the pump out.. primarily only way is to jack up the rear end, drop the exhaust, drop the shocks, undo the filler hole guard (if fitted), undo the pump wires and line.. then drop the tank down gently... remove pump & sender unit.
.. its a good idea to replace the strainer also on the sender unit... and the seal the clamps the sender onto the Tank.. ALSO .. replace your fuel filter (GF481 from memory).. its along the LHS in front of the axle housing.
Strange how your car started one day and not the next.. I'd be looking more at the electricals.. Neutral Safety switch or the Fuel / oil sender also.. and the fuel pump relay up on the firewall (10094701 - check for that number.. should be correct).
ALSO.. pretty obvious to some maybe is the DISTRIBUTOR MODULE.. the black thing on the base plate of the dissy.. when it dies.. you get towed.. full stop.
Hope that helps somehow.
Cheers.
Taking the pump out.. primarily only way is to jack up the rear end, drop the exhaust, drop the shocks, undo the filler hole guard (if fitted), undo the pump wires and line.. then drop the tank down gently... remove pump & sender unit.
.. its a good idea to replace the strainer also on the sender unit... and the seal the clamps the sender onto the Tank.. ALSO .. replace your fuel filter (GF481 from memory).. its along the LHS in front of the axle housing.
Strange how your car started one day and not the next.. I'd be looking more at the electricals.. Neutral Safety switch or the Fuel / oil sender also.. and the fuel pump relay up on the firewall (10094701 - check for that number.. should be correct).
ALSO.. pretty obvious to some maybe is the DISTRIBUTOR MODULE.. the black thing on the base plate of the dissy.. when it dies.. you get towed.. full stop.
Hope that helps somehow.
Cheers.
Your best bet if you are going to change the fuel pump is to install a walbro 340 and a hotwire kit. The best place to buy them would be Racetronix www.racetronix.com as they have the best hotwire kit available (soldered connections, heavier wires, better relays).
The stock pump is marginal on a stock car, once you start modding it you are out of fuel. The hotwire will increase voltage to the pump as the factory wiring is way undersized and will only provide about 10 volts once it reaches the pump.
Before you start tearing into it, make sure it actually is the fuel pump. Put a gauge on it to be sure.
The pump chould prime by command of the ECM when you first turn on the car, then once it is started it relies on a signal from the the oil pressure sensor to activate the pump. If you don't have any oil pressure (about 4-7psi) the car will attempt to start and stumble and die and then just crank over after that.
Turn off everything such as radio, heater fan, etc.. that makes noise, you should be able to hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the car. You will hear it both from the tank and from the regulator as fuel is being sent through it.
HTH
The stock pump is marginal on a stock car, once you start modding it you are out of fuel. The hotwire will increase voltage to the pump as the factory wiring is way undersized and will only provide about 10 volts once it reaches the pump.
Before you start tearing into it, make sure it actually is the fuel pump. Put a gauge on it to be sure.
The pump chould prime by command of the ECM when you first turn on the car, then once it is started it relies on a signal from the the oil pressure sensor to activate the pump. If you don't have any oil pressure (about 4-7psi) the car will attempt to start and stumble and die and then just crank over after that.
Turn off everything such as radio, heater fan, etc.. that makes noise, you should be able to hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the car. You will hear it both from the tank and from the regulator as fuel is being sent through it.
HTH
Racetronix
Member
Please do... 8)
what,s up, ozpont, 1badtta, and racetronix!!! thanks for your help again......i havn,t had time to fix or even check anything yet!!!!!! im very busy at work right now my head is spinning. anyway, what the hell is a hot-wire kit? it increases voltage i guess? my help backed out on me so i'm doing this pretty much myself. my fuel pump fuse is good. how do i check to see if the relay is any good? i was told to start there. when i turn the key to start it, i do not hear the fuel-pump prime at all. i used to hear kind of a humming sound which is no longer audible! how do i check for fuel pressure? i think i need to invest in a scanmaster2. is the hot-wire kit hard to install? i dont want to get halfway through and not know how it goes back together, i hear it's not an easy job. i believe johnsperformance has the pump for $120 and the wire upgrade for $60. i'll let you know how it's going along, thanks for responding 
Racetronix
Member
turbod said:what,s up, ozpont, 1badtta, and racetronix!!! thanks for your help again......i havn,t had time to fix or even check anything yet!!!!!! im very busy at work right now my head is spinning. anyway, what the hell is a hot-wire kit? it increases voltage i guess? my help backed out on me so i'm doing this pretty much myself. my fuel pump fuse is good. how do i check to see if the relay is any good? i was told to start there. when i turn the key to start it, i do not hear the fuel-pump prime at all. i used to hear kind of a humming sound which is no longer audible! how do i check for fuel pressure? i think i need to invest in a scanmaster2. is the hot-wire kit hard to install? i dont want to get halfway through and not know how it goes back together, i hear it's not an easy job. i believe johnsperformance has the pump for $120 and the wire upgrade for $60. i'll let you know how it's going along, thanks for responding
Check the gray wire going into the tank for power when you put the key forward. It will power up only for a second or two to prime the lines with pressure. To check the fuel pressure you need to have a fuel pressure gauge. The harness install is all PnP and VERY easy. If you have the technical apptitude to install the pump then the harness is a walk in the park. Given the age of the vehicle you should remove and flush the tank thoroughly before installing a new pump.
http://www.racetronix.com/Racetronix-TTA_Pump_Kit.html
i looked at the walbro and wire-kit at racetronix this morning and i'll probobly go with them. $160 for both seems fair! anyway a couple of new developments in my fuel problem........i now hear the fuel pump itself,and the relay! when i turn the key in the on position i hear a very weird buzzing sound coming from on top of the engine, after the pump and relay stop. i have never heard this noise in my life! engine will crank but will not start. does the EGR valve have anything to do with this? i don't remember getting any vacum from it the last time i checked!! how about the EGR electronic vacum regulator valve {EVRV} is that what ozpont called a distibutor module? he said if it goes out you'r done. i carefully stuck a nail in the front of the fuel rail and turned the key on and gas flew out about a foot and a half, so i would guess the pump is working??? come to think of it, i used to smell alot of gas when i used to give her half throttle or more, never solved that one either? :sad: all you guys seem to know quite a bit on these cars, any other advice?
TurboD..... Is your car.. turning over but simply NOT firing...?? if so.. ONE.. of the most common causes is the Distributor Module fails.. that the Black flat thing.. laying on the base of the distributor base platform.. TAKE off the dissy cap and you will see it..
.. another problem COULD be a wire broken in your ignition system. like the key to VAT system.. (the security black box).. but in that instance you may NOT even get the car to turn over.....
.. I'd look a bit harder.. if I were you....
.. another problem COULD be a wire broken in your ignition system. like the key to VAT system.. (the security black box).. but in that instance you may NOT even get the car to turn over.....
.. I'd look a bit harder.. if I were you....
Racetronix
Member
Ozpont said:
Dissy cap on a DIS system???? UHHH???
turbod said:
I live in Mundelein IL. Where is alsip from there? Guess i could check yahoo maps. Let me read all your previous posts and if you need help maybe I can lend you a hand if i get some time on the weekend.
Let me know what happens.
Posted Mon Oct 11, 2004 2:38 am:
What about the little connector with an orange wire by the battery? I unplug that to prime the engine with oil. Maybe something with the wire?
But I also had a bad ignition module. you can test it with an OHM Meter across the leads.
thanx for all the lead's again, but now i'm really, really baffled! the car sat for a day so i started it the next morning and it fired up and ran for about five seconds and stalled right out. i tried last night again and it started and ran for about a minute or so and it sounded fine, then it cut right off again! both times it was running it smoked a little and there was an overwhelming smell of fuel coming from somewhere? did not see any leak of anykind anywhere. i took that little black-box on the right side of the coil and took out that little sponge filter of some kind and simply put it back in. i didn't fix anything,i just took it off and put it right back in, i did all this before it started for the record. what is a distibutor module and where would i find it? i believe that little black-box thing on the side of the coil pack is the evrv valve a.k.a. distributor module???? i can see a electrical problem maybe, but i don't understand the strong fuel odor?? is this dangerous? btw i live about an hour and forty-five minutes south of downtown chicago, chriskober where is mundelien anyway? thanx all.....
Racetronix
Member
turbod said:
There is no distributor module. Your car has distributorless ignition = DIS. You have a coil pack and ignition module underneath it. The box with the little filter on it is a vacuum regulator which controls the EGR valve. Perhaps you should post your problem on www.turbobuick.com as there is a much larger population of experienced people on there.
You will have to get a fuel pressure gauge, multimeter and scan tool to possibly solve your problem. There might be a TR member in your area that can help.
Racetronix
Member
ChrisKober said:
Reading through this thread is very confusing and few people have offered any advise as far as diagnostic procedures. It could be this it could be that' does not help and only stands to add confusion. There are diagnostic procedures listed on www.gnttype.org and threads on www.turbobuick.com which cover problems like this in detail. This referral is not meant to steal the fire from this forum but rather get the best information to turbod as soon as possible to get him up and running.
ChrisKober your offer to help him out in person is the best deal going in this thread. A multimeter, fuel pressure gauge and scan tool would advisable as they would limit the hit and miss approach to diagnosing his problem which can lead to unnecessary costs.
The TTA shares some systems from the f-body and the TR so most people that own a TR or TA will not understand or be familiar with the TTA's systems.
I am new to this site and TTA's but I have the same problem with my 200 mile car. There is another post about this problem on this site. My service manual seems to indicate that if the car cranks but doesn't start, the VATTS module isn't sending the signal to the ECM to fuel the injectors.Thus replace the VATTS module. You still keep the same key because the new module reads the key code the first time it's started. If the car doesn't crank it could be the ignition,the VATTS or the starter enabler relay. See the post "Power but will not crank".turbod said:i'm still trying to round up a fuel gauge, scanmaster, multimeter etc....however i do appreiaciate everyone's help, i'll let everyone know when i fix it, thanks again
