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Headers Removal, one piece at a time!

rlamas

rlamas

Well-Known Member
Ok finally got the headers removed..passanger side was a pain, driver side was a breeze seemed like those two brackest were harder to take off then the header itself ..I took the headers to have them welded before i have them ceramic coated ..

heres some pics, seems like there was alot of leaks from where the flange meets the engine..

and what what do you know more bolts missing!! passanger side had one missing at the very back side of the header and driver side had one missing in the middle..
 
How much time did it take you to take them off? I know passenger side looks like a pain. You had to remove the DP as well right? Why did you remove them heard them leaking? When you coat them post some pics, GL and have fun.
 
I heard them leaking and last time I used sea foam I could see smoke leaking out..I did remove the DP, passenger side took a couple of hours driver side took about 10 minutes ..hopefully I'll have them back by next weekend and I'll post up some pics
 
Sounds good cant wait to see them fresh and clean! Once my TTA gets restored, I will being going bigger turbo, then coat the DP, headers and cross over pipe. Whos coating them if you dont mind?
 
Whats going on? Its Joe.. Black holds up the best. After a while black will turn a dark gray. Silver or Chrome coating will dull and blotch after a while.

I did my exhaust housing on the turbo, downpipe elbow, and a bunch of brackets in black. Looks great!

Joe
 
TTA976 said:
Whats going on? Its Joe.. Black holds up the best. After a while black will turn a dark gray. Silver or Chrome coating will dull and blotch after a while.

I did my exhaust housing on the turbo, downpipe elbow, and a bunch of brackets in black. Looks great!

Joe
Click to expand...

Share any pics?
 
Cool. How do they look? You should have the flange (the side where it connects to head), machined flat as well. Headers are very time consuming to take off and put back on. So double check for cracks and take your time.

Joe
 
Will do Joe..I almost talked my self out of coating them until I cut up my hands talking them off now i should reward my self lol..I'll defiantly have them machined down, will a belt sander do the trick?
 
Nice.. He did weld around the tubes.

You have the stocker dp. You can use Krylon BBQ/Stove black paint from Home Depot or Walmart. The key is the make sure the dp is prepped well before painting.

This will hold up till you get your 3" dp.lol

Joe
 
rlamas said:
Will do Joe..I almost talked my self out of coating them until I cut up my hands talking them off now i should reward my self lol..I'll defiantly have them machined down, will a belt sander do the trick?
Click to expand...

Id use a foam sanding block. Do it by hand and take your time.

Joe
 
are there different header bolts I can use instead of the old ones? maybe somthing not so rusty looking lol

don't wanna get to far off subject here but when RJC power plate I've read stripping the intake is a common issue, what size studs should i use to replace the bolts if i decide to go that route..
 
im sure if you measure that arp can make you some studs .... send them a factory bolt.
Ive read the striping out issue with power plates also never had a problem. Ditched it on the GN after seeing where it puddled the alky. Kind of like the issue some people had with the lareger TB bolts coming loose never had that happen either on the butter fly opening ??? I might just be lucky ?
 
tta299 said:
im sure if you measure that arp can make you some studs .... send them a factory bolt.
Ive read the striping out issue with power plates also never had a problem. Ditched it on the GN after seeing where it puddled the alky. Kind of like the issue some people had with the lareger TB bolts coming loose never had that happen either on the butter fly opening ??? I might just be lucky ?
Click to expand...

Ah yes, this might be the header bolts you need, it even comes with 12 in case you loose a few. Your might want to double check the size, but I think this is the right ones. I have a list of the ARP bolts that Jan used on his car and this was on the list.:cheers:
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/400-1109/10002/-1?parentProductId=744888
 
I used all original bolts on the headers and 70 mm tb/plenum...

Stripped one header bolt. Luckly it was just the bolt.

Joe
 
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Maybe I'll just ditch the power plate don't want to bring anymore problems or risk it, I dropped off the headers Monday morning guy said I would have them back mid next week!!
 
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