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Headlights

Like most, little pieces. Like a big dummy on the driver side ( left) after i got the motor back on and tightened down i realized i didn't but the plastic gear in first...:censor: so instead of starting over i loosened the two screws and gently pulled it out just enough to get the gear back in, makes me wonder why you can't do it that way in the first place..
 
Jan Larsson said:
Aha, yes there's a few screws to get in there to replace the switch ... too many of them that's for sure ...

Switch can be sorted if you take it apart, clean it and bend the metal tabs in there to give them some better tension ... I need to take my old one apart and see if I can sort it as a spare for future needs.
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I fixed mine and it was pretty easy, a little fine grit sandpaper on both sides of contacts and bent the prong a little, works like new...
 
Robert
Months ago when I did my motor bushings, I thought I did both headlights...wrong! Only did the drivers side. My passenger side went out last week on the same car (88). I grabbed all the tools you put in your "anti meat grinder kit", took the whole assembly out, replaced the bushings, and re-installed.
Guess what......NO BLOOD this time!
Just had to share! :)
 
robert lee said:
Like most, little pieces. Like a big dummy on the driver side ( left) after i got the motor back on and tightened down i realized i didn't but the plastic gear in first...:censor: so instead of starting over i loosened the two screws and gently pulled it out just enough to get the gear back in, makes me wonder why you can't do it that way in the first place..
Click to expand...

Hey Bob, did you try this ? It works...:idea5:
 
8289ta said:
There are 2 bolts on the bottom of the bracket. I put mine in when the bumper was off my 82 TA so I am not sure if you can get to them with the bumper on. Your best bet would be to remove the plastic trim and the headlight itself and see if you can get a ratchet in there.
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I rebuilt mine about a year ago took out the whole head light assembly.The two top bolts where easy for the two bottom ones I had to wine up the motor by hand and when the where up would remove the plastic trim then with a long extension on the socket with a swivel at the end I was able to remove the two bottom screws out.Walla assembly out I think It took me about 2 hours for the hole job:eeks:
 
I got 2 spare motors that need rebuilding ... got the rebuild kits so just need to get to it one of these days; luckily I got 2 other spare motors that do work if I ever need to swap one out on no 1078 :-)
 
Jan Larsson said:
I got 2 spare motors that need rebuilding ... got the rebuild kits so just need to get to it one of these days; luckily I got 2 other spare motors that do work if I ever need to swap one out on no 1078 :-)
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It's always nice to have extra parts I wish I could have one of everything.
 
pont1230 said:
It's always nice to have extra parts I wish I could have one of everything.
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You can never have too many spares; seems like when you do have a spare of something that part never need changing ... it's always one that you don't have spare for some reason :-(
 
BOBTTA#464 said:
NO KIDDING......Well I'll be! Next repair, I guess. Boy, I can't wait for the next ones to go out to try this. Probably (hopefully) be like 80 something and won't remember this tip! :rofl:
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You better hope they last longer than the antenna's do, or you will have that crazy Jack Nickelson look, like i do every morning...:cheers:
 
Jan Larsson said:
Robert, common fault all you need to do is replace the switch ... had the same issue on mine; had to press hard to make them come down so into my parts bin and replaced with a NOS switch and everything worked fine again.

Autozone carry an exact replacement these days ...
Headlight Switch Duralast Duralast by Autozone SW235 | eBay
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Just to update this i bought and installed a new headlight switch from autozone on #818 and like Jan said it is identical to the old one so for $16 its not worth fooling with fixing the org. switch.
 
OK, may try to tackle this job over the weekend...
I bought a full set of ratchet extensions and those loooong needle-nose pliers. I already had the extendable magnet stick.
The parking lights/fog lights also stopped working, so I just ordered the new autozone switch to have on-hand.
What is involved in replacing that switch?
Thanks.
 
^^^ are you sayin' that "it's intuitive"?o_O I thought that somewhere there was mention of a big bunch of screws?
 
You have to take all the screws out of the inst. bezel, you must remove bottom panels on both sides to do that, grab a cooler full of beer and take your time and maybe you won't invent new cuss words...:D
 
2015-05-23 12.12.37.jpg
OK. I officially call "UNCLE"...
I got the driver's side assembly out - with no cussing and no bloodshed (long extension worked great). Did not even need the kevlar sleeves or gloves.

However, in the disass'y of the housing and motor, 3 screw heads (out of 5) broke off. Then, trying to drill out the broken screws - I broke the housing :mad:
2015-05-23 16.12.22.jpg
I've had enough - ordered 2 remanufactured units from CARiD.
If anyone wants a good deal on the repair kits from TDS, mine are unused, let me know.
 
These kind of things can be a pain sometimes, dealing with trying to remove and loosen 26 yr. old parts.They were not made out of very strong material to start with. Let us know how it goes with the new motor assy!
 
Bless your heart... seriously that's why i don't own a gun, i would put so many holes in it you could make a yard sprinkler out of it....
 
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