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High CO Emissions

TTA#545

Active Member
I recently purchased TTA#545. I had an issue with a vacuum leak in the dash at the AC control which I have resolved.

The car fails the high speed (2500 rpm in neutral) CO test in my state inspection process. I've been told to pour two to three quarts of "clear" rubbing alcohol into the gas tank. The problem is that my local pharmacy has two types of "clear" rubbing alcohol, ethyl and isopropyl. Which is the correct, and/or best type to use?

My second question is in reference to the correct position of the factory aluminum wheels on the car. Which offset, wide or narrow, goes on the front and which goes on the rear?

Thanks for your help!
 
Don't know about that pouring alky in your tank. Before you do that you may want turbotweak.com to burn you a specific "emissions" chip. if your still going to pour alky in the tank I would use the Denatured kind found in the hardware section of Walmart and at Home depot, that's the kind recommended for use in the alky injection tanks. I'd still look for a few more opinions on that. For the Wheels the "wide Looking" ones go the front and the narrow looking in the rear. Backwards looking offset I know, but that was the factory set up. I have seen one TTA at the Buick Nationals in 95 that had them backwards, easy mistake as it would look like it should be the contrary to the factory set-up. Good luck with your emissions situation. Thank goodness my car is registered in hill billyville where they think an emission is somethin that happens when you eat at taco Bell.:rofl:
 
TTA#545 said:
I recently purchased TTA#545. I had an issue with a vacuum leak in the dash at the AC control which I have resolved.

The car fails the high speed (2500 rpm in neutral) CO test in my state inspection process. I've been told to pour two to three quarts of "clear" rubbing alcohol into the gas tank. The problem is that my local pharmacy has two types of "clear" rubbing alcohol, ethyl and isopropyl. Which is the correct, and/or best type to use?

My second question is in reference to the correct position of the factory aluminum wheels on the car. Which offset, wide or narrow, goes on the front and which goes on the rear?

Thanks for your help!

Welcome!! :cheers:

1. Do not pour alcohol in your gas tank...It will ruin the lines and make the car run a little leaner

2. Get a scanmaster http://fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc~CartId~{F7935CD8-4A5D-43E5-A875-2EVEREST77F9658D3E7}~ic~050SCAN2GN~eq~~Tp~.htm This little box is so full of info you will be amazed. It reads all the engine parameters and sensors. Without this you can not get the car into tune and most likely not pass emissions. The scanmaster will tell you your fueling and air. Which could cause the high emmision readings.

3. Get a new chip and another emmisions chip. http://www.turbotweakstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1000
Eric Marshall is the chip man and cars are running low 10's with them and one even broke into the 9's two weekends ago. He makes an awesome street chip and emmision chip.

4. Like the post above me the wheels are stamped on the inside.

If you have any other questions, let us know!

Jason
 
Thank you for the reply/advice. I have an OTC 1000 from the GN I owned in the early 90's. It does read the TTA's ECM. Can I assume that the newer scan tools are preferred? Which tool is best, the Turbo Buick or the DSM Scantool?

The information on the rims is appreciated. Turns out they are in the correct position.

I've replaced the IAC, O2 sensor, and TPS. The car has a new exhaust system including cat, however, the former owner was not sure if the cat was "real" or a "pass through". The car passes all emissions requirements except the high speed CO test. That makes me think that the cat is intact. The car now idles much better and the CO readings have come down some, however, not enough to pass and the car "stumbles" when given more throttlr/fuel at mid range. It's not setting any codes. Your thoughts?

Your response is appreciated.
 
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