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Low Idle

rlamas

rlamas

Well-Known Member
this has gone on for the third day in a row..i start the car before work or after and it will idle at around 400 rpm? today all i had to do was turn it off and start it again so it could correct it self but yesterday it didnt i had to drive it for about a few miles down the road before it start to idle at normal (800 rpm)..what could be the problem? TPS, IAC? :eam:
 
So, it sounds like the ECM can't maintain program idle, so either the idle air bypass needs adjusted or the IAC motor is going bad or the TPS is out of adjustment.

Or...the coolant temp sensor is giving the ECM the impression it's warmed up when it's not. Like it would be in closed loop operation. That may explain why it clears up when it is run for awhile. It needs a decidely richer mixture and higher IAC count to maintain 850RPM's when it's cold then when it's warmed up.

Either way you need some sort of scan tool to diagnose this and then we can go from there on a solution.
 
It can go unnoticed,the SES light that is,....it may flash so quickly one doesn't notice.Or it throws the code in the initial start up when the SES light is on.

Allthough... a few times earlier this year I was studying some logs and found a the log contained a handful of codes thrown throughout the 1/4 mile run. Stuff like VSS,ESC circuit and TCC code(s). Turns out the powerlogger's edge connector needed a little cleaning. It never logged those codes in the ECM's memory is how I figured out it was a PL problem and not real codes.
 
Problem is back! This time it is doing it daily, idle is very low around 300-400 then it slowly starts to drop before it eventually dies, but sometimes it will correct it self and start up fine? With out having a scan tool what would be the safer bet to do buy the IAC or TPS
 
rlamas said:
Problem is back! This time it is doing it daily, idle is very low around 300-400 then it slowly starts to drop before it eventually dies, but sometimes it will correct it self and start up fine? With out having a scan tool what would be the safer bet to do buy the IAC or TPS
Click to expand...
Trying to fix this without a S.M is like trying to win the lottery without buying a ticket, not trying to be a smart-ass but you still need the S.M to adjust both IF thats the problem
 
yes Rob is correct buy a scanmaster and then you can buy the parts you need not the parts you might need. Also the sm is required to install the tps and iac sensors.
 
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