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Need help biulding BOOST!

rlamas

rlamas

Well-Known Member
I’ve recently noticed that I’m not building any boost on gauge when I stage the car, Maybe I’m not giving it time to build? not revving it up high enough (little bit over 2000rpm)?

On the 15th I’m taking the car to a 1/8 mile track I just want to correct this before I go..
 
Could be a few things...exhaust leak,wrong stall convertor,not enough braking ability or not enough RPM.
 
I suppose you are launching the car on street tires. If it is near stock engine and you put it in drive and not od when you launch it holding the brake firmly at a little above 2000 rpm the converter should lock and the rear wheels should spin. As long as you don't have exaust leak, the car will run terrible with exaust leak.I had this problem and wouldn't build much boost because of exaust leak.
 
TTA984 said:
I suppose you are launching the car on street tires. If it is near stock engine and you put it in drive and not od when you launch it holding the brake firmly at a little above 2000 rpm the converter should lock and the rear wheels should spin. As long as you don't have exaust leak, the car will run terrible with exaust leak.I had this problem and wouldn't build much boost because of exaust leak.
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how is it doing now? what did you do to fix it? you should be ready for a run down the track! :chat:
 
robert lee said:
how is it doing now? what did you do to fix it? you should be ready for a run down the track! :chat:
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That leak was a while back, it was some loose bolts at exaust collector. Tighten them and cured the problem.

To be honest Robert this car is running awsome. I would like to put some MT's on there and try it at Gainesville Florida or South Georgia Motorsports Park above Valdosta Ga.

Since the temps have cooled a little, it makes the turbo engine run even better. They love cool temps.

:burnrubber:
 
All I've done is the basic spring cleaning to it..I did order the chip from turbo tweak idle is so much better car drives great..I'm not sure if its top end of first gear or when it shifts to second it breaks the tires loose (pretty fun)..
 
TTA984 said:
launch it holding the brake firmly at a little above 2000 rpm the converter should lock and the rear wheels should spin.
Click to expand...

I think you mean flash or stall and not lock. The convertor won't lock under 45 MPH and it has to be in 3rd or 4th and it will never lock if it sees the brack switch made.
 
I always light the stage bulb first put in neutral rev it up ... an u can feel the pedal go further down hold it ... put it back in D rev it up an leave ... i got a 1.55 doing that
 
You're the second or third person that has mentioned revving it up in neutral before getting the second bulb lit. And clearly it must work, so I'll have to try that out. I get terrible 60' times.
 
Well its a start..I finally went to the track lastnight with a buddy from work, He has a 99 Camaro SS (stock) we did two runs side by side..

Not sure if this happens to other people but i had the whole plan of staging the car correctly and building boost but that went out the window as soon as i pulled up to the staging lane lol..

Now i did run a third time by my self i was told i ran a E.T9.03 mph?
but i dont have to time slip to show becouse the lost it at the window :mad2:
 
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does it really help to select D instead of OD? What difference does that make?
Forgive me if this is obvious, but I have never used anything but OD. have I been missing out on something?
 
andre#4 said:
does it really help to select D instead of OD? What difference does that make?
Forgive me if this is obvious, but I have never used anything but OD. have I been missing out on something?
Click to expand...

I can't see how that would make any difference in your case because with a trap speed of only 80 mph, you're not likely to even be in overdrive at all. However, to prevent the O/D from any possible damage at the track, use plain old DRIVE. The path of power through the O/D part of the transmission is weak.
 
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