No problem kymme,here we go:
1/4'' bubble wrap insulation right on the graded ground(provided the insulation and vapor barrier).
4' x 8' sheets of 6''x6'' 10 ga wire screen tied together right on top of the bubble wrap.
1/2'' pex tubing tied and run 1' on center(note the 6''x6'' screen)made it easy,go down one row,180 back skipping one makes them 1' on center.
Loops to be no more than 250' long,I ended up with 5.So making about 1,250 feet of tubing I ran.
Electrical box mounted in floor,cover to be at finished surface of concrete,conduit run back into basement where the control panel.This is for the floor slab sensing bulb for the T-stat.
My heated area of garage is 30x44,I have living space above it.Walls are wood framed 2''x6'',so thats R-19 in the walls,I put R-38 in the ceiling,my garage doors are R-16 rated.Garage has no windows.
My heat source is a NG high effeciency MODULATING boiler that can ramp between 26k BTU's and as high as 155k BTU's.The calculated heat loss for my application was 18k BTU's @ 55 degree slab temp,with 0 degree outside temp.So,I did not want a straight up 125k BTU boiler,to,when it calls,ask only for 18k.NTM,my boiler is serving Hydro-air units around my house.
I ended up running the garage temp @ 65 degrees all winter long,thats 10 more than projected,even on the coldest of days,when it calls for heat,would maybe run for 5-6 minutes to satisfy and then be off for as long 2-3 hours !!!!Very,very effecient.Best thing ever to do for garage heat,bar none !!!!Best environment for the cars.
Now,off the 30x44 garage is a 24x24 garage workshop,that I just finished this year,no heat in there yet,existing slab,so could'nt put in radiant unless I chopped up the floor.The radiant slab was tranferring heat back into that unheated garage keeping it at around 50-55 !!!!Which is insulated and sheetrocked also and has R38 in the ceiling as well.
I'll try and post a pic of the panel I made for the floor system.
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