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Oil Leak

duarosca

duarosca

Well-Known Member
So I have the TTA in the shop for this oil leak that just does not want to go away, 4th time doing this work for nothing any ideas...I did hit the pan hard along time ago running from ...
 
It would help if you could indicate where the oil leak is, there's lots of places it likes to come out on these turbo engines :) If the oil pan, since you had hit it in the past, a think cork gasket works best. If its leaking out of the rear main, then a Felpro rubber seal has always worked for me on the 3 TR powered cars that I have had and did the rear main on along with the pan.
 
What type of pan gasket did you have before? Looks like there is a little bit of black silicon gasket material left on that spot? Rubber pan gaskets are very picky about oil on the surface when applied and the torque of the bolts being too tight or not enough. Get a thick cork gasket from ArizonaGN or Cottons, apply dry with all surfaces free of oil, and just a smear of ultra Black at the timing cover to block surfaces.
 
Funny thing I've used them all rubber blue no silicone on none of them just on the bolts to prevent backing off, cork screw thin and thick, change pcv valve to the rjc racing hand tight every single time, and black stuff is from old oil sitting there for years...
 
I am trying something different today, I checked the pan to see if it was warped from when I hit it 10 years ago and was straight so I'm grinding the nipples next to the bolts, and then grind a line on the inside around the pan, use that high temp red silicone that Toyota sells put it on with no gasket.
 
I would rethink that RJC pcv as it will sent your blm's ape- shit crazy, though i have heard you can run it inline with a stock pcv but i have never tried it...
 
And how would I run them inline, the stock in the manifold grommet and the rjc in between or vise versa?

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I wonder if this is why a can't put my foot in it with out knocking at 10 psi boost and air ratio gauge shows that it goes rich.
 
Need more info, you WB or you looking at NB ? Chip ? Mods ? Either way if you are getting knock at 10psi you need to stay out of it till the problem is found...
 
Your are absolutely right, as of March it's been my daily driver, for years it was parked in the back abandoned because I had a company pick up and worked to much and no play, being that oil is down in price and halliburton is buying bakerhughes they let us go and now I drive this thing.
 
And I have people close to me that can fix and tune it like in the old days, Lou in lake forest, Tim Lee in rancho cucamonga, and Archie in el Monte from gn performance. ..it's just that money is tight right now, and they are not cheap.
 
Thats why you need to learn how to work on it yourself.. if i had to pay people to to what i do i would be living in the car...
 
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