OIL PAN

[F8LBIRD]

Have to bring the TTA back to mechanic for 3rd time. About 3 weeks ago they replaced rear main seal, oil pressure sender, and said they fixed a leak coming from oil pan, 3 days later more oil under car-took it back figuring rear main was leaking again plus they crossover pipe wasnt on right and the car sounded like shit-i brought the car back and gave him some ultra copper you guys reccomended. they said the oil pan was dripping again and they snugged it up and used ultra copper to seal crossover. Well the crossover pipe sounded fine again(thanks for the tip). well 2 days after i have it back- i look under car and the biggest oil spill i've ever seen was under there!! So I have to bring it back in for him to look at. Is there any prone places for oil to leak from the pan(i.e the drain plug or where it bolts up to car-maybe gaskets) if so are these gaskets available at Parts store?
I'm not all that confident in these guys now. I'm almost afraid to drive the car there.

Any help would be great!

Thanks
Jim

 

[WS6]

FWIW, mine leaked like an exxon tanker when I got it. One from the O-ring on the oil cooler adaptor, one from the drain plug on the pan and a third from the rear main.

I've accepted the rear main leak as part of owning a turboed 3.8 and the other 2 I fixed with new parts.

I'm new at these turbos, but I gotta say that the long oil filter may be the hot ticket for the G-bodied guys but it's not for the turboed F-bodies. That long filter that was on mine was beat to hell from whacking the idler arm and I think that contributed to that oil leak area. Not from the filter, but the long filter applies alot of force to that oil cooler/sender assembly when it slams the idler arm.

 

[PhillyTurboSix]

Are they using a cork or rubber pan gasket. You can not use rubber on these cars. Cork is the only way to go. I know I had major issues with the rubber one they put on my car. Went to cork and I had to snug it back up around 1000 miles later and it's bone dry!