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Red Poly bushing's on LCA & Torque Arm?

TTA976

TTA976

Silver Member
I have been in f-bodies with poly mounts for the engine and trans.
I will only use rubber for them.

My question is with poly bushing's on the LCA or Torque Arm, will I feel vibration?
Reason being these two rear suspension pieces come in to play more under hard acceleration not so much under normal cruising. Rubber is almost 25 years old so I way thinking...
Any help guys?

Joe
 
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I dont get any vibration from the Spohn poly LCA's.
The Spohn torque arm needs thicker rubber under the mounts for less vibration.
I have one hanging on the wall, but talked to a few different guys that run them with thicker rubber. The thin rubber Spohn supplies is crap.
 
You'd be surprised at how quickly that vibration fades away into your subconscious..

I cut up a spare bedliner to make rubber shims for under the spohn TQ arm mount and it helped some.

But honestly I did allot of bitching about all the new noises and vibrations the car made every time I upgraded something, but frankly, that's the cost of going fast.

I have to say that with stock-ish suspension my car made terrible clunking and banging noises coming off the T-brake at 18 psi, but with poly stuff? not a noise....so I put up with, and eventually,forgot about the vibrations after awhile....it was worth it to me.
 
WS6 said:
You'd be surprised at how quickly that vibration fades away into your subconscious..

I cut up a spare bedliner to make rubber shims for under the spohn TQ arm mount and it helped some.

But honestly I did allot of bitching about all the new noises and vibrations the car made every time I upgraded something, but frankly, that's the cost of going fast.

I have to say that with stock-ish suspension my car made terrible clunking and banging noises coming off the T-brake at 18 psi, but with poly stuff? not a noise....so I put up with, and eventually,forgot about the vibrations after awhile....it was worth it to me.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys.

Rich what do you think off these two parts?

82-02 UMI Performance Non-Adj. Torque Arm(Transmission Mount | WS6store.com

The non adj torque arm's pinion angle is fixed at 2*. $203.00


1982-2002 Chevrolet Camaro Firebird Lower Control Arms - Founders Performance LLC

These are 1.75" X .095 made of DOM 1026 which is stronger than chrome moly. $64.00

What do you think of these are two parts Rich?

Joe
 
I got all poll bushings on mine (all black) on all suspension parts (A-arms, LCAs, swaybars) and the right is much firmer and tighter in corners (I also have subframe connectors) however unless on a smooth road it is a harsh ride that's for sure ... but as Rich said you get used to it :-)

I did put poly bushings on the torque arm mount (transmission cross member) as well as on the transmission mount again transmission cross member and not much of a difference on mine I must say. I run the stock torque arm setup.
 
Jan Larsson said:
I did put poly bushings on the torque arm mount (transmission cross member) as well as on the transmission mount again transmission cross member and not much of a difference on mine I must say. I run the stock torque arm setup.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jan. Wasn't sure if poly ride/noise was noticeable on these particular parts (torque arm or lca's) while cruising around town. I know first hand how they fell on engine and trans mounts.

I know the poly bushing's really tighten up the car. Like the idea, just a little cautious. I chose the UMI torque arm because of the black mount. Black mounts are softer than red.

Chose the Founder's lca because of the price. For a few more bucks, instead of just changing the bushing on the stock lca's, I could replace with a stronger arm with a NEW bushing. They are very good quality.

Thanks guys. You answered my ?'s. You all are great!

Joe
 
I got UMI's LCA's and their adjustable panhardbar on mine and I'm very pleased with them; managed to buy them all "raw" so I could powdercoat them to match my other suspension part here in the UK. Both came with the black poly bushings.

I was not aware that red were a harder type of poly bushing? All I seen is that the black ones seems to be better and not bind like the red ones can do (still need to be lubricated but a better option in the long run was my understanding) ... oh and personally I'm not a fan of colored bushings in general rather go stealth with black :-)

I'm very pleased with my setup and on a smooth curvy road it makes such a difference but can only compare to my 90k miles OEM rubber bushings I replaced. And as I mentioned in combination with subframe connectors its the perfect match.

Glad we could help !
 
One more question Jan and Rich. Would putting a poly mount on the torque arm, or buying a factory replacement non adj. torque arm apply much more torque to the transmission then the factory does...which might not be the best idea...? Adj. torque arm may be a better choice to utilize instant center (think they call it that) cause you can more it around?

Joe
 
The torque arm on the TTA (at the transmission) is actually just attached to the transmission crossmember (this is how Bill Owen solved the really bad vibrations they had early on that could been a big show stopper if not resolved) ... so moved away from the transmission itself.

So I don't think a poly mount will do any harm at all as long as kept off the transmission housing or you will get some really nasty vibrations not caused by the poly mount rather by the fact having the torque arm attached to the transmission like you see on the V8 birds and many others.

I've been running a poly mount on my stock setup for years and have had no issues doing so; one reason being the stock rubber bushing halves been discontinued for a long time as far as I'm aware.
 
Thanks Jan. That's right, I do remember the vibration issue he spoke of. I understand now. Thanks a million.

Joe
 
Jan beat me to it, the TQ arm is moved off the Trans's ext housing(like other 3rd gens) in our TTAs and is part of the crossmember.

The only thing I can add to what Jan has suggested, is for me personally, I prefer adjustability. A negative 2* fixed pinion angle may work but I ended up with 2-1/2* negative and some folks point it down even more.So an adjustable TQ arm is what I suggest.

Also, because one night I rushed the installation of LCA relocation brackets I wound up with a thrust angle that was out of spec quit a bit. I ended up buying UMI single adjustable LCA's to point the rearend to the center. It wasn't much, but when the alignment shop brought it to my attention and I corrected it. I was amazed at how some of the little quirky noises and funny shimmy on launch went completely away after the thrust angle was corrected.
 
My initial plan was to keep the weight down so I wanted use chrome moly where I could. So, my options were limited.

I ordered #2013 / Black with Chrome Moly material. From what I gathered, the chassis sides of the links do not need lateral swivel. So the poly joints work just fine and damper vibrations. The Sperical joint on the axle side allows for axle articulation as it moves about.

Also ordered #2038. Panhard Bar / Black with Chrome Moly material with the Roto-Joint design. Read lots good things about Roto-Joint on the Panhard bar. The Roto-Joint is a nice combination of damping and articulation for what I have read. Noise is barely noticable on the Panhard bar with Roto-Joint design.

I am new at this stuff so.... I have been doing a lot of reading. Please help me out if I am mistaken.

Happy New Years Guys!

Joe
 

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Here are the parts... Nice job with the powder coating. Looks like candy.
UMI has nice stuff.

First glance...

Roto Joints are cool on panhard bar. Nice design and the bar is lightweight.

LCA's, opted for the Spherical chrome moly and Teflon line rod ends/black Poly bushing. I read the Teflon line rod ends are quieter than the Teflon/Kevlar Self Lubricating Race Rod end. If you look on UMI sight, these are the only one's they offer with the Teflon line rods and they are the most $$$. Midwest Chassis sells the Teflon line rods as well if I am not mistaken. Most others have the QA1 3/4" Hard Chrome Plated, Teflon/Kevlar Self Lubricating Race Rod end which can be noisy. Correct me if I am wrong guys.

Joe
 

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Looking good and gives you some nice adjustment possibilities as well.

Will be interesting to hear what you think about them once installed.

I take it you will mostly race your car and not so much street driven?

One question about chrome moly ... I can't remember if I read somewhere that yes it's light weight however shorter lifespan as it can break easier; this would not be a problem on a race car as they replace the parts frequently but on a daily driver it would be less desirable to use it ... however I can't remember exactly what all the ins and outs are?
 
Jan Larsson said:
Looking good and gives you some nice adjustment possibilities as well.

Will be interesting to hear what you think about them once installed.

I take it you will mostly race your car and not so much street driven?

One question about chrome moly ... I can't remember if I read somewhere that yes it's light weight however shorter lifespan as it can break easier; this would not be a problem on a race car as they replace the parts frequently but on a daily driver it would be less desirable to use it ... however I can't remember exactly what all the ins and outs are?
Click to expand...

Yes, I am interested how they will work as well Jan.

I only put around 400-500 miles a year on the car. If it was a daily driver I would never go with chrome moly. Steel is stronger than Chrome Moly but it depends wall thickness and diameter of the tube. I asked the same question Jan. Spoke to the two companies listed above and they both said chrome moly would be their choice and would hold up for a long long time for my application.

Bunch of us went to the track last year but we were rained out. Total bummer, I was over an hour away from home and it rained like you wouldn't believe. I was very angry.

Joe
 
UMI stated that they really overbuild their products. Tech guy was great to speak with. He said they have never had an issue with chrome moly cracking or braking. He told me "They will be good after quarter million miles".

Joe
 
Got the RLCA's brackets. Nice powder coating on the bracket. Went with Founder's Performance for this. CNC formed out of 1 piece of steel. Other's are 3 pieces welded together. Very solid and well made. Ordered Friday and got them this morning. Will post if anyone cares.

Joe
 
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