gatorlance
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
Still chasing my vacuum leak. I've gone around and replaced all of the vacuum hoses, replaced the two check valves that have gone bad. I've also replaced all of the intake piping and clamps up to the throttle body. Currently, I'm seeing between 10-12 lbs of vacuum at the intake/vacuum block at idle. Since I have a stock motor other than intake/exhaust, all indications suggest I should be seeing 16-17lbs even at altitude.
I'm definitely noticing that this is making my brakes awfully soft too. And when driving, I see the boost stop for a bit at 10# before it continues up to 16 and stays there. Though with the replaced vac hoses and check valves, it does rise past 10# much faster now than it did before replacing the hoses.
With my son holding a vacuum gauge, I've gone around the vacuum block, blocking each port individually at the source (or hard pipe) and noticing that when I have these ports blocked at the hard pipe, I am still seeing 10-12lbs. Increasing idle will also increase vacuum, but the car is idling at around 700, though I have not verified that with a tach other than what is in the car. Since all of the ports off the manifold appear to be holding vacuum, I've narrowed possible leak sources down to:
- Short hoses between the vacuum block and the hard pipes (doubtful)
- Wastegate actuator diaphragm
- EGR Solenoid
- EGR Valve/gasket
Which I believe can be the only areas left to check. I've sprayed WD-40 near those areas in an attempt to hear rpms change, but to no avail.
I've got a new Y-fitting and associated hoses on order from Kirbans - assuming that the new hoses I have on the Y-fitting may be cracking under heat. Also, a new adjustable WG actuator.
Can anyone tell me if there is anything special to taking the EGR valve off the car? It just has the single nut/stud near the DS valve cover, correct?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Lance
Still chasing my vacuum leak. I've gone around and replaced all of the vacuum hoses, replaced the two check valves that have gone bad. I've also replaced all of the intake piping and clamps up to the throttle body. Currently, I'm seeing between 10-12 lbs of vacuum at the intake/vacuum block at idle. Since I have a stock motor other than intake/exhaust, all indications suggest I should be seeing 16-17lbs even at altitude.
I'm definitely noticing that this is making my brakes awfully soft too. And when driving, I see the boost stop for a bit at 10# before it continues up to 16 and stays there. Though with the replaced vac hoses and check valves, it does rise past 10# much faster now than it did before replacing the hoses.
With my son holding a vacuum gauge, I've gone around the vacuum block, blocking each port individually at the source (or hard pipe) and noticing that when I have these ports blocked at the hard pipe, I am still seeing 10-12lbs. Increasing idle will also increase vacuum, but the car is idling at around 700, though I have not verified that with a tach other than what is in the car. Since all of the ports off the manifold appear to be holding vacuum, I've narrowed possible leak sources down to:
- Short hoses between the vacuum block and the hard pipes (doubtful)
- Wastegate actuator diaphragm
- EGR Solenoid
- EGR Valve/gasket
Which I believe can be the only areas left to check. I've sprayed WD-40 near those areas in an attempt to hear rpms change, but to no avail.
I've got a new Y-fitting and associated hoses on order from Kirbans - assuming that the new hoses I have on the Y-fitting may be cracking under heat. Also, a new adjustable WG actuator.
Can anyone tell me if there is anything special to taking the EGR valve off the car? It just has the single nut/stud near the DS valve cover, correct?
Any other suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Lance
