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Timing gear

TTA579

TTA579

South Bay TTA "Barn" Find
One of my next repairs is going to be replacing the timing chain/gear. Recomendations?
 
I was told not to use the stock tensioner when I changed to by double roller chain ... so might want to double check that depending on route you go with this
 
I would not use the tensioner either with a double roller timing chain. They can get chewed up and fall aprat/fall off and make a mess.
 
I was just told the same thing on my rebuild, definitely use a double roller timing chain BUT MAKE SURE TO NOT USE the tensioner otherwise major failure awaits from chewed up tensioner all over, clogging oil, and creating a low oil, spun bearing, block failure...etc. Do a search on the turbo buick forum about it.

Does anyone have a pic of what the stock tensioner looks like for the timing chain? Is it a small part that is in line with the timing belt that keeps the slack out...and can be easily removed? I am going to be there when the motor is put back together and I want to make sure it is done right.
 
I might have a picture somewhere ... its just a bolt holding a spring loaded damper in place pushing on the chain ... so easy to remove
 
Actually the billet stock style gears/chain is just as strong as a double roller chain. That's the route i took...I didn't like the idea of not using a tensioner. Lot's of discussion on the TB site.
 
Pretty much a stock steel gear replacement with new tensioner has been the recommended solution for years that is good well down into the 10s unless you are converting to a roller lifter setup with tons of spring pressure, but there is no reason for that on a turbo motor since you dont need excessive lift or ramp profiles on the cam. Not to mention these are pretty low revving rpm motors to begin with.
 
06d9be55.jpg


Dan Strezo set up
 
Last edited:
Kman1971 said:
ok, now i feel like a real idiot....but I can't find the tensioner in the pic...
Click to expand...
Well the link to the Summit part doesn't look anything like the stock tensioner. The other pic of the chain/gear with the front cover off is a double roller setup so there is no tensioner.
Let me see if I can find a pic of what they actually look like...little tiny spring loaded part with a rubber looking bump stop on it.
 
Here a nasty looking pic, tensioner on the left slack side.
Jeep033.jpg

Here is another pic from part on ebay
e557_1.JPG
 
OK, now I feel better, there was no tensioner in the firs pic, the double roller set up. Now I can see what it is and why you need the double roller set up.

My new block does not have this tensioner set up, so that would be something that would be moved over from the old one....so I will have to make sure that does not happen.

Thanks for the help. Awesome.
 
The main thing is get rid of the plastic gear, nothing really wrong with having a good single chain and tensioner, this is a preferred method per the reasons mentioned before. If you go the double chain route, be sure its from a quality manufacturer like TA or Strezo etc, they will be pricey. The cheaper ones you get from Summit, Edelbrock etc will stretch and cause you other problems then.
 
This was the one that I was recommended by the guy helping me rebuild it from the turbobuick forum.

CLOYES Part # 91134 Incl. Cam Sprocket; Roller Chain; Street True® Roller Timing Set

Do these stretch?

Thanks for the help, Rob.

Kris
 
If you havent rebuilt the motor and using roller lifters, then that means you have flat tappets and there is no way you would be running a high spring pressure to warrant a double chain. They just werent needed for typical street strip builds since no high spring pressures, no high lift aggressive cam lobes, and no high rpms.
 
2QUIK6 said:
If you havent rebuilt the motor and using roller lifters, then that means you have flat tappets and there is no way you would be running a high spring pressure to warrant a double chain. They just werent needed for typical street strip builds since no high spring pressures, no high lift aggressive cam lobes, and no high rpms.
Click to expand...

I'm running a double chain on mine however I do have a full roller setup (cam, lifters, beehive springs and rockers) ... hard to determine good / proper slack on the chain when new but I remember talking to Mike at fullthrottle about it to make sure I got the right length chain and should be good when stretched slightly which will happen with all of them just a tiny bit.

Not had an issue yet with my setup after 1500 or so miles.
 
Yea, that is the set up, full roller, I am going with too, Jan. I was persuaded away from the original type cam into the full roller set up too by most here and my turbo buick friend that is helping me rebuild it. He has built over 20 of these engines and a great resource to me so far, as many here. Just makes sense.

What cam did you go with? I went with the Revolution X Roller Cam Kit Morel Lifter and this grind
206/210 .516/.516 110 L/S
Good stock replacement and driver cam 2800 stall.
Seems to fit with everything I have on the car already and a good performer on the street only. I will not be taking the car to the track.

Here is what the timing chain looked like that was on the car when the engine blew. It looks like a double roller, right????
I am thinking all the junk was from the tensioner.

Many thanks again to all who have helped with advice on my rebuild. Always fun to learn new stuff. I can't wait to get it finished and feel the difference in the car.


2012-12-05_11-54-55_682.jpg
 
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