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very annoying miss

I would never buy injectors lower than 60 's my 84's idle like a champ with my small cam

I will be putting larger inj in my GN soon so i will have 2 sets of 50's for sale
 
Alright, so here is the skinny. Drove it in to work today and it is still doing the same thing. Are the computers in these cars the same as the Grand National. I wasn't sure if they were since these run a MAP sensor and the GN's don't. If they are I am going to borrow my friends extra computer and try that. I also have a question about the Scanmaster. At idle, should the O2 Millivolts bounce around or stay pretty much constant?
 
Nick Wise said:
Alright, so here is the skinny. Drove it in to work today and it is still doing the same thing. Are the computers in these cars the same as the Grand National. I wasn't sure if they were since these run a MAP sensor and the GN's don't. If they are I am going to borrow my friends extra computer and try that. I also have a question about the Scanmaster. At idle, should the O2 Millivolts bounce around or stay pretty much constant?
Click to expand...

Same computer as a GN. They run an MAP sensor too.

02's should bounce around.
 
Yesterday I tried the computer out of Matt's TTA. Still did not fix my problem. He brought up a good point though. Ever since I got the car, theSECURITY light has always been on. I know the ca had an alarm on at one point and still has alot of the wiring and everything in it, but the alarm does not work, and is missing some of the parts. I have slowly been trying to undo the rest of thealarm that is still in the car. I am sure the light is on because of this. Could this be part of the problem. Remember, the car starts and runs and drives, but sometimes it floods itself out after starting, especially if it does not run for about 3-5min before I take off, and it gets a miss occasionally while driving, sometimes very short periodof time, andsometimes it does this for a long time before it goes back to normal. When it starts to miss when I get into the throttle good, the O2 millivolts drop pretty low, but if I stay out of the gas they read pretty close to normal. I did not know if the VATS could cause anything like that. The only time it would shut off is if it floods itself out bad enough. But that is very rare.
 
I am running a set of stock injectors, FP is set to 43 Psi, I have not dropped the tank yet. I just got my fuel pump and hotwire kit, so I will have it down soon. I also have the 60lb injectors on order, should have them this week.
 
I don't know if this could a cause of it, but my gas cap does not fit properly either. I think when they replaced the fuel tank they bent the filler neck. I know on newer cars this could throw a code, but i did not know if this could actually cause any problems. I never checked my gas mileage because i never actually fill the tank since in pushes out of the gas cap occasionally if it is full, but my mileage sucks. another thought, could it be some bad spark plugwires. They are new, but they are NAPA specials. when i got the car it ran very rough, but I never drove it on the road untill after I replaced the plug wires and plugs, oil change and so on. I just started it up and pulled it into the shop. I am just trying to throw everything out there since I may be overlooking something very obvious.
 
Nick Wise said:
I don't know if this could a cause of it, but my gas cap does not fit properly either. I think when they replaced the fuel tank they bent the filler neck. I know on newer cars this could throw a code, but i did not know if this could actually cause any problems. I never checked my gas mileage because i never actually fill the tank since in pushes out of the gas cap occasionally if it is full, but my mileage sucks. another thought, could it be some bad spark plugwires. They are new, but they are NAPA specials. when i got the car it ran very rough, but I never drove it on the road untill after I replaced the plug wires and plugs, oil change and so on. I just started it up and pulled it into the shop. I am just trying to throw everything out there since I may be overlooking something very obvious.
Click to expand...

What size are the Napa wires?

And since you are running Erics chip it disables the EGR. You could run without a gas cap if you wanted to.

Jason
 
ECT? May cause why it is flooding out. Temp gauge I don't think has ever gone above 160. I never thought about it since I know the fans come on. Today I noticed even after driving for 30 Minutes or so, the gauge never read above 160. I think it actually was about 150 when I shut the car off. What do you guys think?
 
Quiky One said:
For the TTA hotwire kit only use Racetronix. I would probably get the hotwire from Racetronix, the Walbro 340 from fullthrottle (to insure you get a new style non defective one), and the 60's from pick your choice. :thumbup:
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Quicky One,

Which part number are you using for the Racetronix hotwire kit? On the web site I found, I only see kits for the GNs and nothing for the TTAs. Are they the same? Why are the other hotwire kits not as good as the Racetronics one? This info will help me with my "spring cleaning". Thanks in advance for your time and help.

Steve
 
Steve O. said:
Quicky One,

Which part number are you using for the Racetronix hotwire kit? On the web site I found, I only see kits for the GNs and nothing for the TTAs. Are they the same? Why are the other hotwire kits not as good as the Racetronics one? This info will help me with my "spring cleaning". Thanks in advance for your time and help.

Steve
Click to expand...

This is the TTA one, I got it on mine and seems to work fine and installation is straight forward.

Racetronix - FPWH-012 - F7 Fuel Pump Wiring Harness
 
Thanks Jan.

The reason the TTA one is better IMO is because it has the exact length needed. The TTA is just enough different that the GN one isn't as easy to install. A gn one will work but some might even need lengthening of wires. I know the GN one from full throttle wayyyy back in 2003 was going to need an extension. There is a great possibility it has been changed though. I slapped it on a GN and bought te racetronix one.

Any other questions shoot away!
 
Alright, I think I am ready to make the call on this problem. I have driven the car about ten times since I have installed another computer from another friend of mine. Since doing so, the car has not acted up once on me. The last time I tried a computer was out of Matt's car, and I never actually drove the car. It started running a little rough so we decided it did not fix my problem and switched them back. The one I put in my car this weekend was a spare so I did not have to give it back right away. I have probably put on about 150 or so miles with out a single problem. I believe it is fixed. I will order a new computer this week. Anyone know of a good place to get one, and are they Reman, used or new. Also, Ialways thought it was a MYTH about the steering wheel controls for the radio light up when the headlights are on since I have never seen one that actually worked. Last night mine decided to turn back on. Of course this was only a few minutes before the fuse for the tailights decided to blow again. I have been trying to trace this short for a while now. Is this a common problem where a wire may rub on something.
 
Fixed the wiring issue yesterday. It was one of the brown wires that comes off the back of the switch. Traced it over to a module up behind the dash almost directly above the ALDL connector. not sure what it is called, anway the wire was rubbing on the metal bracing on the back of the dash. Had to rip out the dash to get to it to repair it. Everything works fine now including the headlights going back down. A little trick I learned about how to trace the wire to find a short. Take a tailight bulb, run two wires off of it. put one wire in each connector in place of the fuse that keeps blowing. In my case it was the tail light fuse. I turned on the park lights and the bulb lit up real bright. this clarifies that you have a short. go around and start wiggling wires and disconnect any plugs that run on that fuse. If the light flickers or goes out, you have found your wire. It was a great tip that I learned from one of our Mechanics.
 
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