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What you guys think if my current mods and future mods?

P

PaulybTTA

Well-Known Member
TTA MODS current:
60#fuel injectors/chip turbotweak
Alky Alcohol/injection kit m1
160degree thermostat
Power logger scan tool/tuner
3in chrome up pipe
RJC Powerplate and Pelenium
Comp Cams 100# valve springs
Stock garret turbo
Walbro High pressure fuel pump
Fuel pump Hotwire kit/adjustable fuel pressure regulator
RJC Adjustable boost controller
Rebuilt 200r4 brf trans heavy duty internals 2400 stall
Fresh head gaskets/milled heads
Dual fan bypass
Toyo proxes tq Drag radials
3 inch Down Pipe dumped
Big neck intercooler
Valve cover breather
3in chrome maf kn air intake

Next mods:
Ft Billetwheel 62mm 6152E-MFS turbo
Port turbo elbow
3000 stall converter
Rjc 70mm throttle body
Ebay Aem Wide band
Gn1 Bov
1.75 lowering springs
Install pillar gauges
 
What I am saying is:

If you install lowering springs that lower the car closer to the ground, the intercooler scoop will also be lower to the ground, and may scrape the pavement as you drive.
 
You might have a issue with billet wheel 6152 with a stock elbow. Just save your money and buy 3" DP. Or id go smaller on the turbo.

Don't cheap out on the converter either. What one you looking at?

Jared is right. The TTA is low enough. You will scrape if you lower it. Sucks having to watch everywhere you drive. Don't do it.

Joe
 
jarredsoon said:
What I am saying is:

If you install lowering springs that lower the car closer to the ground, the intercooler scoop will also be lower to the ground, and may scrape the pavement as you drive.
Click to expand...


X2. With the poor condition of the roadways in the Chicagoland area, you will do some damage to your car.
 
TTA976 said:
You might have a issue with billet wheel 6152 with a stock elbow. Just save your money and buy 3" DP. Or id go smaller on the turbo.

Don't cheap out on the converter either. What one you looking at?

Jared is right. The TTA is low enough. You will scrape if you lower it. Sucks having to watch everywhere you drive. Don't do it.

Joe
Click to expand...

Can't I just port out the elbow?
 
If you did that would be the biggest turbo I would run with a stock ported elbow. You will need a lot of converter to spool that journal 61.

If it's a street car I would use a ball bearing turbo. BB will spool faster from 0-5psi and that's what you want for the street...stop light to stop light, etc. Plus, it uses a smaller exhaust housing like your stocker. Stock heads, the smaller exhaust housing will be a better match... for spool up and throttle response.

Journal bearing turbo spool slower. Turbonetics (CPT60) is a ball bearing turbo and would be a great pick to mate with a stock downpipe. List $995 but Gerry could give you a better deal if you call him. Cotton's Performance.

I'd order a nice lockup converter like 9/11 with the Billet Cover $675 shipped through TCS converter. Don't cheap out on the converter! Tell them your turbo selection and they will help you out.
Tell them too loosen it up a couple hundred rpm. They usually stall 24-2600ish @ 0/1psi.

So right there would total around $1700 but you would have a ball bearing turbo and a GREAT converter that will last a long time. imo

Joe
 
Rich WS6 is using a 6152 with a stockish DP. I think it's the older ATR 2.5 DP though.

I think Rich is uses a 3500ish non lock converter from Janis with his 6152. ???That's showing you how much converter you will need to be happy with spool for a 6152 journal.

Rich might chime in to help you out. This car is setup totally different but you get the picture.

Joe
 
you get too much lag and soccer moms in their suv's will be owning you light to light. like said, get an aggressive convertor if you wanna run a big snail. don't be too afraid of advertised stall speed. some of these companies can make your car launch but not sound like it's towing a boat from every stoplight
 
TTA976 said:
If you did that would be the biggest turbo I would run with a stock ported elbow. You will need a lot of converter to spool that journal 61.

If it's a street car I would use a ball bearing turbo. BB will spool faster from 0-5psi and that's what you want for the street...stop light to stop light, etc. Plus, it uses a smaller exhaust housing like your stocker. Stock heads, the smaller exhaust housing will be a better match... for spool up and throttle response.

Journal bearing turbo spool slower. Turbonetics (CPT60) is a ball bearing turbo and would be a great pick to mate with a stock downpipe. List $995 but Gerry could give you a better deal if you call him. Cotton's Performance.

I'd order a nice lockup converter like 9/11 with the Billet Cover $675 shipped through TCS converter. Don't cheap out on the converter! Tell them your turbo selection and they will help you out.
Tell them too loosen it up a couple hundred rpm. They usually stall 24-2600ish @ 0/1psi.

So right there would total around $1700 but you would have a ball bearing turbo and a GREAT converter that will last a long time. imo

So what size stall? And also u think I can run the stock elbow with te60 with internal waste gate or what should I do about that?
Click to expand...
 
PaulybTTA said:
TTA976 said:
If you did that would be the biggest turbo I would run with a stock ported elbow. You will need a lot of converter to spool that journal 61.

If it's a street car I would use a ball bearing turbo. BB will spool faster from 0-5psi and that's what you want for the street...stop light to stop light, etc. Plus, it uses a smaller exhaust housing like your stocker. Stock heads, the smaller exhaust housing will be a better match... for spool up and throttle response.

Journal bearing turbo spool slower. Turbonetics (CPT60) is a ball bearing turbo and would be a great pick to mate with a stock downpipe. List $995 but Gerry could give you a better deal if you call him. Cotton's Performance.

I'd order a nice lockup converter like 9/11 with the Billet Cover $675 shipped through TCS converter. Don't cheap out on the converter! Tell them your turbo selection and they will help you out.
Tell them too loosen it up a couple hundred rpm. They usually stall 24-2600ish @ 0/1psi.

So right there would total around $1700 but you would have a ball bearing turbo and a GREAT converter that will last a long time. imo

So what size stall? And also u think I can run the stock elbow with te60 with internal waste gate or what should I do about that?
Click to expand...


2600ish would be great with the 60mm. Yes internal wg all the way. Stock ported elbow is fine. Joe
Click to expand...
 
BB turbo for sure will spool better for street and a tight 2800-ish convertor.
I'd go non-lock, but just my opinion. I don't miss the surging and shit with the lockup and highway cruising is fine, don't even miss the lockup. It was just epa gas mileage crap that initiated the lock up conv.

After all that work and money I would at least put it on the clock the way it is before removing anything or buying anything else and give it 3 or 4 runs down the strip.

Does it feel any faster with the mods you have currently?

Go pick a on a new vette and see what happens. Dial what you have in, see if you can get in the 11's the way it is. Others have (grand nationals) got in the 11's with same stuff. Good luck and Merry Christmas!:thumbup:
 
a good convertor will run you near a grand if not more.
if you wanna see what an expensive 2800rpm stall capable of towing car trailers can do. look at the pic of my wagon in my intro thread
 
nomrlz said:
a good convertor will run you near a grand if not more.
if you wanna see what an expensive 2800rpm stall capable of towing car trailers can do. look at the pic of my wagon in my intro thread
Click to expand...

This unit is a very good unit. I haven't had any issues. Billet cover model is well built. Dusty at PTC said himself if someone wants to lock a 10 second car at WOT this would be his choice. Grumpy put this converter in the 9's.

He noted that locking it at WOT in the high 10's isn't really necessary since the low stall speed it should couple well in a 10 second car. Low 10's to high 9's it's getting to the point where it would need to be locked at WOT or if they are using a negative fin angle to get stall speed up to 3000 rpm it will have quite a bit of slip without being locked at WOT.

The downside is the advertised stall. Looser one stall 2600ish @ 0/1 psi. Bigger turbo's will have some lag.

Joe
 

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PTC makes quality units. if they are confident that will work for your combo and goals. i'd say you're good
 
RatFink said:
Research spragged vs. spragless cov. for street vs. track use.
Click to expand...

I know the NEW non lock ups are better overall. I am not saying spragged are better than spragless. Some converters can not be used without a sprag. Dusty knows what has to be done without using a sprag. PTC 9.5" non-lock has less slip at cruise than the other converters without one. Spragged do run a touch cooler but it doesn't matter since you should use a good external trans cooler anyway.

I just think the 9/11 is very affordable and it works well.


Joe
 
I had a 9/11 in my old tta and it worked very well. I have non lock PTC 9.5 in two other transmissions and they also work extremely well.

Two great options for someone looking to upgrade converters
 
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