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Best Oil /Filter combo?

8289ta said:
That seems overkill to add more ZDDP. The Vr1 is pretty expensive. If you are going to add the ZDDP, why not just get a quality motor oil and add it to that?
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you are correct, don't add much, and yes the red-bottle is getting hard to find, it is a balancing act
 
8289ta said:
One more thing - Rob why are you putting in such a heavy weight oil?
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yeah it goes against what i have always thought too, but after talking to more than one buick-turbo builder with 20+yrs under their belt, i thought i should listen to someone that know's alot more than me. and they all said the same thing
 
I just checked over on Turbobuick and it seems that there are arguments for and against a higher viscosity oil.
 
I agree with Jason.

10w40 Shell oil from Lowes is what I have been using. Was $14.00/5 qts. If you have a Military card you get an additional 10% off ...bought 12.

You can zddp for 7 dollars at the TB/TTA event's.

You can buy Wix 51086 for $14.xx shipped on ebay.

That's 35 dollars for a good oil change if you do it yourself.
 
I realize that. But if you don't have an issue why change?

Maybe rich will post in here. He has firsthand knowledge. We have discussed this in length. Ws6 come on in.

You're decreasing the life of your bearings...unless they already gone, no need.
 
Quiky One said:
I realize that. But if you don't have an issue why change?

Maybe rich will post in here. He has firsthand knowledge. We have discussed this in length. Ws6 come on in.

You're decreasing the life of your bearings...unless they already gone, no need.
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bearings are fine, plan is to rebuild over the winter, still have 10-30 mobil-1 in it , but it is a 80k mile motor and i plan on running the hell out of it after the rebuild 1/4 mile at a time. that is why i am talking to people in the know(ya'll also) about it.i just want it to hold up as best as it can to my abuse(and it will be alot)
 
I know buick people love mobil 1 well ... I had a cold start knock using mobil 1 and wix ... switched to royal purple never had another cold start knock .... My dad thought I was crazy. I changed the oil in his 10k mile 87 GN with mobil 1 un hooked the orange wire primed the pump and all. Started car it had a knock went away after a few seconds did it 2 more cold starts and he has never put mobil 1 back in his car either 10w30 btw

Jack merkel told me break in my engine with straight 30 rotella


off subject but still fluid talk .. I asked a big name in transmissions builder whats the best transmission fluid to use ? his answer was quality hydrolic fluid
 
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tta299 said:
I know buick people love mobil 1 well ... I had a cold start knock using mobil 1 and wix ... switched to royal purple never had another cold start knock .... My dad thought I was crazy. I changed the oil in his 10k mile 87 GN with mobil 1 un hooked the orange wire primed the pump and all. Started car it had a knock went away after a few seconds did it 2 more cold starts and he has never put mobil 1 back in his car either 10w30 btw

Jack merkel told me break in my engine with straight 30 rotella


off subject but still fluid talk .. I asked a big name in transmissions builder whats the best transmission fluid to use ? his answer was quality hydrolic fluid
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i've heard good things about royal purple as well, think i will try it in my high mileage gmc for the hell of it
 
kymmee said:
Since I dont race I guess this is what I do. lol I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Oil is very debatable. Use what works best for your situation.
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Yeah - I'm with you Kymmee - I just take it out around the neighborhood every now and then. I just use a quality Dino oil, Wix filter and the red STP if I can find it. If not I throw in the blue. I am probably changing the oil this weekend, gassing it up and taking it out for its final spin before I clean her and put on a heavy coat of wax for storage. Then she won't come out till the spring. For the use I give it, I am not too concerned about putting in super expensive oil as long as I make sure it has some sort of ZDDP protection and a good filter.
 
Well? seems to be a variety of opinions about this and here's mine.

1st, the discussion of ZDDP(Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates)...is an additive that used to be in oil, it has been greatly reduced because it's hard on catalytic converters as it is burnt off in the combustion process,but it is also the sacrificial wear component of motor oil,so it's what is consumed during metal to metal contact too,like lifter base to cam lobe,rocker arm to valve stem,etc.

So, using a 1/2 bottle or just one bottle per 3000 miles of use, in my opinion is flirting with disaster.We can dillude ourselves in thinking that synthetics or ZDDP "enhanced" oils is all that is needed but the reality is that Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates are used up and ppm levels are greatly diminished as we approach oil change intervals.This is especially true of cars that are raced or run hard and often on the street. Aggressive cam profiles and stiffer valve spring rates only compound the problem.

2nd,I know allot of guys run heavier oils and claim success, but the evidence isn't there to justify it. I can only see it's benefit on maybe 10% of the builds out there. You guys running straight 30 or 20/50 are making a problem or masking over one.A stock build may have .0015-.0018 bearing clearances, running stock or unmodified oiling systems and missing the benefit of the 10/30 oil.Tight clearances like that, run cooler oil temps with the lighter oil,remember we're not talking about metal to metal friction but rather hydro-dynamic wedge and the oils ability to move between the bearing surface and back out into the oil pan.

Another problem with heavy oil is that it ruins the #1 cam bearing because of the increased load on the end of the cam on the gear that drives the cam sensor that drives the oil pump shaft.
Folks testifying for the use of heavy oil will never post thier failures, they won't tell you that they use to have 20 psi at hot idle, but began to lose it, now it's 6 psi. Nor will they tell you that they also add some Lucas additive to raise the viscosity just to maintain 10psi at idle.They are only leaving out how they forstalled the inevitable rebuild.Or poorly done rebuild.

Now...when we build an engine for racing or heavy street use we can open our clearances to .0023-.0028, so you'd think why not run heavier oil now? Well, we still have to work with the Buicks poor oil pump design,so no. It's still better to modify the front cover,meticulusly set up the oil pump clearances and move more volume with it,not more pressure.Again, heavy oil is too hard on the front cam bearing for what is diminishing returns 20/50 will yield.

So...in the end,this my experience with oil viscosity and extreme abuse as it pertains to TB engines.I've wrecked my share of bearings and I've wrecked other peoples share of bearings for that matter. I've also wiped a lobe or two and I've denied the benefit of ZDDP as well.

So, take my advice if you'd like...or not. Matters not to me
 
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straight 30 cold

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warm

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