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DP leaking

W

White Dwarf 89

Well-Known Member
Ok so I'm going thru small details on this new car of mine and found a leak at the bottom two bolts of the TH down pipe. Looks like they used bolts that were too long for the application because they bottomed out! I hope they did not crack the exhaust side turbo housing. Anyway, other than the right length bolts, will I need a gasket? It didn't have one installed and it may be the best way to install but could a copper gasket hold up under all the heat ?? Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Jr.

http://emob133.photobucket.com/albums/q74/Jackolivas/1303698316.jpg
 
Quiky One said:
Use copper. And btw, a leak there won't hurt performance at all.

Jason
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Great! Good to know. I had thought it would make a small difference in torque if there were any leaks before the catalytic converter. At least the bugs I'm finding are minor so far! Almost got it drivable since it had been parked most of the last 4 years or so before By the previous owner who babied it(I hope, lol)
 
Leak fixed! Now to make it stop hitting subframe so I won't get false knock and keep the engine from backfiring. Darn TH downpipe!
Has anybody used exhaust wrap around that section to reduce vibrations? Please post up results. I may try it and see what's up.
 
White Dwarf 89 said:
Now to make it stop hitting subframe so I won't get false knock and keep the engine from backfiring. Darn TH downpipe!
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uhmm...you've got other issues,false knock isn't going to make it backfire.

....just sayin'......


...
 
Maybe coil pack shot. My friends GN did that too. Yeah, false knock will pull timing. Lay down a bit I would think. I wrapped my DP, but only about 5 in from the turbine housing, past the plug wires.
 
RatFink said:
Maybe coil pack shot. My friends GN did that too. Yeah, false knock will pull timing. Lay down a bit I would think. I wrapped my DP, but only about 5 in from the turbine housing, past the plug wires.
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Yes going to give it fresh tune up. It has an alky chip and 42# injectors. Alky container is empty right now.
Did it help with the "thumping" after he dp was wrapped? I am wondering if the malfunctioning Direct Scan hardware on the computer affects anything. When I hook it up, it gives me a "hardware time out" message. I'm thinking I need to either remove it or get me another ECM. I got winaldld to keep and eye on things. I got a bunch of crap to check on it and my shop is not finished yet.
 
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I have my DP (2 1/2 ATR) wrapped from the elbow all the way down to the bend to the dump tube, and if you think this will cushion the thumping as it bangs I can tell you it will for about 20 minutes. Then the wrap will begin to chaffe and unravel as that stuff is not designed to be rubbed on after it has heated up. It's dry and somewhat fragile after installation. I'm a fan of wrapping DP's too, but not for what you think it can do for banging.
Even my 2 1/2" pipe contacted the sub frame connector and I ended up having to have a 2X3 saddle welded in to make room.
 
It has the strap that bolts on to the alternator bolt-to the strut bolt.
I had thought exhaust wrap was made of Kevlar being how I have never used it. Kevlar is tough. Anyway, I'll try the most cost effective solution first. Just surprises me how bad vibration feels on the passenger floorboard! The Buick was smooth as silk on the road. No regrets though! I like my TTA lots.
 
Don't know for sure what header wrap is made of, it seems like an asbestos type weave. I don't think it's kevlar and I only say that because of header wraps cheap price.

That being said, kevlar has a virtual limitless lifespan if never torn,exposed to extreme temps or UV light. All of which your DP will be exposed to.

I've used the DEI header wraps and it's fine on the install but doesn't take kindly to too much abrasion.
 
get a good set of motor mounts instead of the tie down strap ... u might need to index the dp with a BFH not uncommon
 
poly mounts may be the answer. The engine strap does Not help even when just putting in gear. Too much engine twisting there. Excuse my ignorance but please write out what BFH means. Thanks!
 
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LOL
I think what I'll do is have a 12" piece of that braided flexible stuff welded where it hits. That should keep the rest of the exhaust from moving with the engine when it twists, tentatively. Plus if it still rubs, I can dial that piece easier than a solid pipe. Thanks guys!
 
tta299 said:
get a good set of motor mounts instead of the tie down strap ... u might need to index the dp with a BFH not uncommon
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Strap was extra tight. Loosened it a bit and seems like that did the trick. Just got it tight enough to get the slack out and hold the engine from twisting. DP is not hitting at idle now.
 
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