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Fuel pump.....done :)

Coltsfan1

Well-Known Member
Ok I don't claim to be a mechanic by any means but I like to play that role once in awhile. Last week I bought the racetronix set up from Hawks 3rd gen. I researched on here and everywhere about how to change the fuel pump and the decision to cut the floor or drop the tank. I will admit several guys did a very nice job cutting the floor, then others looked like they used a jackhammer. I decided to drop the tank. My buddy and I had the tank on the floor in 3 hours. That did include some beer, chips and salsa breaks. We ended up dropping the axle as far as it could without actually taking it out, I should add that my lift was life saver....the 42lb injectors and tt chip are sitting on the bench and are next.

Still waiting on the seats from JAX, they have had them for a lil over a month so I'm hoping for a call soon. I will take photos and keep all updated and my opinion of there work.
 
Yeah dropping the tank is the way to go for those with little fabrication skills. I have done it plenty and never had to remove the rear axle, just lower it as far as possible. It's kinda fun withthe beer and chips, just be sure not to bend the neck, I did and had to have it welded up to not leak.

Jarred
 
I can't believe that some people actually cut a hole in the floor to get to the fuel pump.Dropping the tank is the way to go ,the last thing you want to do is cut a hole on your dam TTa,some people are freeking crazy.Well worth the work you will be happy you did.Also having a few beers helps the motivation going and not to mention a few brakes in beetwen.:thumbup:
 
Well for the average Joe with a stock TTA then yeah you are right, but someone with a highly modded car that race's alot and don't have 3hrs to change one at a track i don't blame them one bit, cut the hole out right and it can be a 15min. job, which by the way the Fac. should have done in the first place... then you can ...:rockon: with your day.
 
Well for the average Joe with a stock TTA then yeah you are right, but someone with a highly modded car that race's alot and don't have 3hrs to change one at a track i don't blame them one bit, cut the hole out right and it can be a 15min. job, which by the way the Fac. should have done in the first place... then you can ...:rockon: with your day.
I get what you saying Robert but at the end you just hacked up your car that's my opinion.:thumbup:
 
Well for the average Joe with a stock TTA then yeah you are right, but someone with a highly modded car that race's alot and don't have 3hrs to change one at a track i don't blame them one bit, cut the hole out right and it can be a 15min. job, which by the way the Fac. should have done in the first place... then you can ...:rockon: with your day.

Changed my failed Walbro 340 (one of the bad batch a few years ago) in the pits at Cecil in less then 30 minutes. Like said if done correct no harm done...haters can hate that's fine with me. I have done fabrication work for 30 years, my access panel is stainless steel, I also used stainless steel press in PEM nuts, stainless steel 10-32 screws and a silicone gasket. Jason also did a 1st class job on his access panel as well...just another example of how it can or should be done.

just my 0.02 :cheers:
 
The access panel is great if done well, however I think most tta owners are not fit to fab one up that is clean and tidy.

Also if you are all race and change the fuel pump seasonally why not run an external pump? Then you eliminate the whole in tank/drop tank problem.
 
I get what you saying Robert but at the end you just hacked up your car that's my opinion.:thumbup:

A access panel that is done right and can't be seen in the first place is not what i would call hacking a car, on the other hand if you have peel-off flame's from Autozone, a jacked up rear and a Swamp people bobble-head on the dash then you have issues...:teehee: oh yeah, lets not forget the chrome over the wheel wells and the curb feelers...:rofl:
 
There is/was a technical service bulletin on 3rd gen cars covering a pronounced gasoline odor outside the car. The issue was with the poor solder around the filler neck at the tank. Nearly all of them will crack when the tank is removed and re-installed. And you all know the strain that is put on that joint when we muscle that tank down and back in again.
If you are a serious daily driver or racer then you will be changing pumps more often than you'd wish. For that reason alone I come down on the side of the access panel. If done properly it's never seen, not at shows, not at the track and not in your garage.
It's less noticeable than sub frame connectors yet we do that as matter of instinct. And doing this "mod" helps prevent cracking the filler neck at the tank.

My '92 had a cracked filler neck and the General bought me a new tank and let me tell you that car reeked of gas fumes.
 
It looks like RACETRONIX is doing some more stuff for TTAs , hangers, bulkhead etc...Jared you should post some pics of your new external pump, curious how the pickup works.
 
Something that should have been done from the start at GM....If it's a hackjob then I agree but if you hack that you probably think curb feelers on a GTA are Kool
 
and as far as modifications, frame connectors are definitely needed. I'm also replacing the steering shaft with the Astro van shaft that has no rag joint (weak point) and Astro bearing. They put them on Astro vans but not 87-92 GTA's Trans Am Camaro Iroc z Z28 perfromance cars but Astro vans got em ????
Bet ya if you look at a Astro van a fuel pump is probably a 30 min job too...
 
The access panel is great if done well, however I think most tta owners are not fit to fab one up that is clean and tidy.

Also if you are all race and change the fuel pump seasonally why not run an external pump? Then you eliminate the whole in tank/drop tank problem.
I was thinking the same thing why not go with a external pump:shock:
 
I did, and I also changed my fuel pump this year and it was EASY and done in no time. took out my aeromotive proseries for a weldon 1100A
 
I was thinking the same thing why not go with a external pump:shock:

From what i can gather you would have to fab some kind of internal pick-up to keep the external pump from losing its prime or leave the org. pump in the tank which means you would still be at its mercy, so in effect a external pump with the intank pump in place would only be a booster so to speak...
 
From what i can gather you would have to fab some kind of internal pick-up to keep the external pump from losing its prime or leave the org. pump in the tank which means you would still be at its mercy, so in effect a external pump with the intank pump in place would only be a booster so to speak...
got ya:thumbup:
 
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