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Whats under your hood..
- Thread starter rlamas
- Start date
2QUIK6
Well-Known Member
I would say Boost and Knock are most important, if you have a fueling issue, its going to knock long before you notice a needle on a gauge, or at least have some sort of knock alert, scan master doesn't react fast enough, and you can have knock without any fueling issues.
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Changing the fuel pump requires also dropping the exhaust, a much bigger pita if the pipes have never been separated at the muffler in 23 years!
If you decide to have a shop do it, make sure you are not paying them to cut the trap door method as that is the easy way out you could have done yourself. There is a guy in Royce City, used to be in Rowlette, that is very highly recommended for TRs and owns one himself, has a very clean shop, you'll be very impressed with his shop and his work. His house and his shop are all on the same property now so its very secure too. Usually has several TR's there, he is also a member of the local Buick club. He's about 20 mins East of 635 off of I30. PM me if you want his info.
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Changing the fuel pump requires also dropping the exhaust, a much bigger pita if the pipes have never been separated at the muffler in 23 years!
If you decide to have a shop do it, make sure you are not paying them to cut the trap door method as that is the easy way out you could have done yourself. There is a guy in Royce City, used to be in Rowlette, that is very highly recommended for TRs and owns one himself, has a very clean shop, you'll be very impressed with his shop and his work. His house and his shop are all on the same property now so its very secure too. Usually has several TR's there, he is also a member of the local Buick club. He's about 20 mins East of 635 off of I30. PM me if you want his info.
2QUIK6
Well-Known Member
Shoot for 42# with van line off at idle...adj a little as needed to get your BLMs on the Scanmaster to 128 or near. I like to see idle BLMs around 126-132 min/max.
Connect the van line go for a drive, should see 1# of fp for each pound of boost over what your line off idle pressure was.... if it was 42# at idle van line off, then at 15# of boost it should be 57# with van line connected.
robert lee
Gold Member
What 2QUICK6 said on FP after you install the new chip, inj, i think it's around 38psi with stock chip
rlamas
Well-Known Member
Another question, the heads from our cars origanly came from a front wheel drive vehicle correct? If so is it possible to find those engines at a junk yard or buy the head indivindaily and send them of to champion to have them reworked? versus pulling mine off and have my car sit for not sure how long..
jarredsoon
Gold Member
Yes I bought mine brand new and sent them to champion to be polished. That's way better than pulling yours off and waiting,.... The casting number ends in 7515 and are pretty easy to get. Try eBay
TTA984
Gold Member
Got mine at Carquest:
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/...E+COVER+SETS__10151_-1_10651_420976?acesApp=1
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/...E+COVER+SETS__10151_-1_10651_420976?acesApp=1
Knock Retard (KR on Scanmaster)
Knock retard in degrees. When the computer senses knock, it retards the timing to help eliminate it.
This reading tells you how much the computer retarded the timing, giving you an indication of how bad the knock event was.
At full throttle, we would like to see zero. However, sometimes you may see a couple degrees here and there on a downshift, or when you first hit the gas. If you see 2-3 degrees momentarily and it goes away, it’s probably ok. If you continuously see more than 2-3 degrees, let off the gas and figure out what’s going on.
Knock retard in degrees. When the computer senses knock, it retards the timing to help eliminate it.
This reading tells you how much the computer retarded the timing, giving you an indication of how bad the knock event was.
At full throttle, we would like to see zero. However, sometimes you may see a couple degrees here and there on a downshift, or when you first hit the gas. If you see 2-3 degrees momentarily and it goes away, it’s probably ok. If you continuously see more than 2-3 degrees, let off the gas and figure out what’s going on.
Record Mode [FONT=Calibri,Calibri][FONT=Calibri,Calibri]While in Run mode, if the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) voltage exceeds 3.00 for 1-2 seconds the Scanmaster will monitor O2 and knock retard. It will keep in its memory the highest knock retard reading and lowest O2 reading along with the MPH that they occurred. The third decimal point (to the right of the millivolt digits) will be lit during recording. The stored readings can be recalled anytime before the engine is turned off. Pressing the Recall button while in Record mode will erase any readings stored, and could be used to delete any captured false knock readings while racing. [/FONT]
Recall Mode [FONT=Calibri,Calibri][FONT=Calibri,Calibri]While in Run mode, pressing the Recall button (on the right of the knock retard display) changes the Scanmaster to Recall mode. In this mode, any previously recorded O2 millivolt and retard readings will be displayed. The third decimal point will blink quickly. Pressing the Mode button and Recall at the same time displays the MPH values associated with the stored O2 and retard values. Turning the engine off will erase all stored data. [/FONT]
[/FONT][/FONT]
kymmee
Silver Member
I have mine set to show the O2 and KR when driving. You can press the button on the left and it will go thru the series of all the current readings. I usually check the numbers every couple times I drive it to see if there are any significant changes in anything. (I like to be proactive instead of reactive.) The SM is a great tool to monitor your engine. No complaints here.
RatFink
TORQUE
+2, much better way of tuning and monitoring detonation. The casper's knock gauge was the way of the 90's. They give false knock. Mine would go to full red when the trans shifted, at only 1/4 throttle.
2QUIK6
Well-Known Member
The caspers gauge is instantaneous since it is tied into the signal the computer reads. Remember the scan master will be delayed a few seconds due to the limitations of the aldl. Had the caspers gauge in the Gn for over a decade and never had issues with false readings if it were getting more than 2 lights up on the gauge it was registering knock on the Direct Scan. It is a bite more sensitive as your knock counts can increase without removing timing and the caspers will register when knock counts are sensed by the ECM since that is the same signal wire.
RatFink
TORQUE
Maybe it was broke, I'm glad it's gone.
robert lee
Gold Member
128 is default, meaning the ecm is not adding or pulling fuel, if it's below 128 it is pulling fuel, do you have a FP gauge yet? what are yout IAC #'s at warm idle?
rlamas
Well-Known Member
i have not gotten the FP gauge yet looking to purchase today locally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRwKWqdXXQc&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRwKWqdXXQc&feature=plcp
robert lee
Gold Member
Everything look's normal but the BLM's the ecm is pulling fuel, O2's are low but that may be normal with a stock chip, is it still stock chip and injector's?
robert lee
Gold Member
Did you disconnect the ecm wire by the bat. when you installed the chip? was the chip burned for the inj. or one you had laying around? also drive the car and make sure the 02 #'s go above 750 ( very important)
